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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page:   1 2 |
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| Aftermarket Shock Replacements | Rating: 
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| Posted: 11-24-2014 08:37 am |
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21st Post |
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NigelK Member
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Hi Eric The spring compressor I bought when I changed the shocks and springs on my GT was too long. You might struggle to find a sufficiently short one in most auto parts shops. But, you can easily compress the front spring using a trolley jack under the lower suspension arm (remove the grease nipple first) which will allow you to remove the shock absorber. This link is to an excellent step-by-step guide how to change front shocks and springs on a Healey, with very helpful pictures. https://sites.google.com/site/johnsjensenhealeywebpage/maintenance-projects/5-front-suspension The part I found really tricky was re-assembly - getting the tie rod, lower suspension arm and shock absorber bracket all lined up so the two bolts could be inserted. In the end I had to be rescued by my friendly local Jensen mechanic (who also happens to be Chairman of the Jensen Owners' Club...) Also, correct torquing of the bolt securing the shock absorber to the bracket is pretty much impossible without a crows foot. Best wishes, Nigel
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| Posted: 11-24-2014 09:07 pm |
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22nd Post |
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Screenplay Member
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Eric, It's not difficult to remove the spring with a spring compressor; it's really something that can easily be done by many home mechanics. Use the internal compressor type that runs up through the center of the spring (after removing the shock absorber) and just make certain to exercise caution. Make sure all four of the arms of the tool are firmly in contact with the coil as you tighten (compress) the spring. Also, don't compress any more than necessary to unseat the spring from the control arms. Just remember to loosen (decompress) the spring as soon as it is out of the car-there is a lot of energy in a wound spring and there is no need to keep it compressed longer than necessary. I don't have a favorite video, but there should be numerous ones online showing the process. Clinton
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| Posted: 12-20-2014 05:28 am |
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23rd Post |
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Eric Member
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Hi Nigel, Just finished rear suspension. Looks like somebody replaced bushings and springs previously, so just going to do front shocks for now. Did you run into trouble aligning the bolt holes because you were replacing springs as well, or is this a problem I'm likely to encounter just replacing the shocks ? Thanks Eric
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| Posted: 12-20-2014 09:29 am |
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24th Post |
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NigelK Member
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Hi Eric The bottom bolts of the front shocks affix to a separate 2-piece bracket, which is itself affixed to the lower suspension arm by 3 bolts, 2 of which are the same bolts which affix the control arms (tie rods) to the lower suspension arm. So you'll need to remove these two bolts regardless of whether you are replacing the shocks and the springs, or just the shocks. Have a look at that web link I posted before and it'll make sense. I think the job of aligning these bolts is much easier if the car is up on a hoist and you can get enough physical leverage to line things up. When I tried to do it, my car was on axle stands and it was impossible to get enough leverage from a prone position on my garage floor! Hope this helps. Best wishes, Nigel
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| Posted: 12-20-2014 09:32 pm |
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25th Post |
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Eric Member
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Thanks Nigel..good to know. If there is any possible snag, I will definitely experience it. Eric
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| Posted: 12-25-2014 06:18 am |
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26th Post |
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Frank Schwartz Member
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You don't need a spring compressor or any fancy tools, I did mine with a set of socket and open end wrenches...but you must read my article in the JHPS magazine as to how to do it without pain....it's so easy and I remember previous jobs on the JHs just trying to get the front end thingys back in place....and I use Monroe shocks...work great for me....
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| Posted: 12-25-2014 06:18 am |
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27th Post |
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Frank Schwartz Member
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You don't need a spring compressor or any fancy tools, I did mine with a set of socket and open end wrenches...but you must read my article in the JHPS magazine as to how to do it without pain....it's so easy and I remember previous jobs on the JHs just trying to get the front end thingys back in place....and I use Monroe shocks...work great for me....
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| Posted: 12-25-2014 06:21 am |
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28th Post |
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Eric Member
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Thanks Frank. How do I access your article in the magazine?
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| Posted: 12-28-2014 05:09 am |
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29th Post |
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Frank Schwartz Member
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Hi: I will have to look back and see what issue it was in. I can make you a copy of it, however, if you give me your snail mail address. Do you have a parts manual? You will need it to identify the parts...I can make a copy of the related pages if you don't. Getting the rear shocks off and on is easy...the fronts, as I wrote, can be a first double class bugger as the coil spring will try to push the whole assembly back and getting it back in place is almost enough to drive a man to suicide. My method is easy and works without all that bother... Frank
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| Posted: 05-03-2018 07:53 pm |
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30th Post |
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dbeliveau74 Member 
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I found KYB KG5552 on Ebay $27 ea free shipping
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| Posted: 09-07-2023 03:07 am |
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31st Post |
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dbeliveau74 Member
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Greg, Currently you list 2 shock sets in the club store, but neither description lists the name or any attributes. Could you provide more info on these ? Thanks, Dan Attachment: 20230906_220409.jpg (Downloaded 53 times)
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| Posted: 03-21-2024 12:59 am |
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32nd Post |
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vnavaret Member 
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Lads: Reviving an old thread... A photo showing how to modify the KYB front shocks to fit. I used the sleeves from the original front shocks, and pressed in a pair of Energy suspension bushings, then pressed in the original sleeve. I used a vise and couple of sockets to press things in or out. Looks factory, and everything fits! The new bushings are Energy Suspension part 9.8141G, $8 from Amazon. I did not want to cut up the original sleeves since they add strength to the top bolt. Slicing up the sleeves and adding the pieces to the top mount compromises the strength. Think about it; Imagine using only the original KYB sleeve - the shock now has a longer lever arm (the space between the sleeve and the frame) on the mounting bolt, and it is therefore easier to bend the bolt near the mounting holes in the frame. The sleeve does more than just keep the shock centered, it adds strength to the mounting bolt. Vance Attachment: IMG_0385.jpg (Downloaded 33 times) Last edited on 03-31-2024 06:33 pm by vnavaret |
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