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| Suspension bushings out of Differential, How? | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 04-01-2018 12:02 am |
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1st Post |
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Steve Duncan Member
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Replacing the rear suspension bushings. Lower arms were easy. Hole saw to cut through old rubber, then sawsall to cut through metal cylinder that was left. Popped out, no problem. Next up was upper rear suspension arms. Can't get the pressed-in old bushings out of the differential. Made a press out of all-thead and some pieces of pipe but can't get 'em to budge. Anybody been here before? Could really use some advice.
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| Posted: 04-01-2018 09:47 am |
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2nd Post |
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NigelK Member
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Hi Steve The original metalastic rear suspension bushings comprise an inner steel tube, surrounded by rubber and then an outer thin steel sleeve. You'll need to remove this outer steel sleeve from the arms as well, in order to fit the new bushings. This is easiest done by chiselling it out, or by carefully cutting a notch in it so it collapses out of the arm (be careful not to cut through into the arm itself). The differential bushes are a pain to remove. I've never been able to press them out. I drilled through the rubber multiple times until the steel inner could be removed, and then chiselled out the outer sleeve as above. Much easier if the axle is off the car. You can also burn the rubber out, but it will make a lot of toxic smoke and should definitely only be done outside, and with the axle off the car. Hope this helps, and good luck! Best wishes, Nigel
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| Posted: 04-01-2018 05:25 pm |
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3rd Post |
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DonBurns Member
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I have done this project twice. First time with some combination of hole saws, burning, cutting with a hack saw blade, and quite a bit of swearing. The second time I took to my local British garage (in Orange, CA) which has a hydraulic press for this purpose. They removed all for about $100. They still struggled with ones on the differential because of the angle, but managed to get them done. Call me lazy, but I thought it was well worth the cost. I had them disassemble the differential at the time so I could get everything powder coated.
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| Posted: 04-01-2018 08:04 pm |
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4th Post |
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Steve Duncan Member
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Thanks for sharing your experiences. Unfortunately the car is in a rural area on the Oregon coast so entrusting it to a shop is not an option. I would prefer to do the differential bushings with the differential in place but from you are telling me that may not be an option. I've built a pretty stout press with drill-rod, small sections of pipe, and heavy washers. I got it all lined up and started cranking on it, but after not seeing things move I chickened out fearing it was going to blow up on me. Is there anybody out there who has successfully pressed out these bushings with the differential in place? A Yes,and your story would go a long way towards prompting a reattempt on my behalf. Thanks
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| Posted: 04-01-2018 08:12 pm |
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5th Post |
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NigelK Member
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Steve I very much doubt your screw threaded tool will work to remove the diff bushing, but never fear you can use it to install the new bushing. To remove the diff bushing with the axle in situ I would use the drill, chisel, patience and profanity technique. Much easier if you can raise the car up on ramps, so you can get a better swing of the hammer when you get to the chisel stage. Best wishes, Nigel
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| Posted: 04-01-2018 08:36 pm |
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6th Post |
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Screenplay Member
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Steve, As others have commented, a drill and a hacksaw blade is probably the best method. If you're comfortable with it, especially with the diff in place, a Sawzall is much faster, and with the cast housing, you are much less likely to cut into the metal beyond the outer shell. Your homemade press will likely help in installing the new bushing, if you're going with Superpro. Best of luck. Clinton
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| Posted: 03-18-2020 09:52 pm |
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7th Post |
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Ralph H Member 
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well here I sit as many before me with all but the Diff bushings replaced. Defeated? Well yes for now. The diff bushings are being very difficult to say he least. I used a screw type press, heat, hammer, curse words, more hammer, better curse words and only moved the first one by a couple mm. I have read and will take the previous advice to heart and drop the whole axle from the car and get the buggers off that way. Short term pain for long term gain.
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| Posted: 03-19-2020 12:01 am |
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8th Post |
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Tom Bradley Member
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Repeat soaking with WD40 or similar stuff over a couple of days, heating the surrounding metal to boiling water temp and then pressing or hammering almost always has worked for me. Lower temps don't seem to work, higher temps make me worry.
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| Posted: 03-19-2020 02:21 am |
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9th Post |
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redracer Member
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Yes, I have removed quite a few using the customary acme threaded rod (WD40 and a propane torch if necessary as Tom has described) with the diff. in place. Impacting tools may have a good effect as well if you have the them. But if this fails, then the "hacksaw" route will work.
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| Posted: 03-19-2020 07:11 pm |
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10th Post |
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Steve Duncan Member
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Before I did mine I read all the posts and asked a lot of questions. I was so hopeful I could use a puller I fabricated to remove them. No way. I now believe and recommend the following process for suspension bushing removal: 1. Use a hole saw on a stout drill and drill out the rubber between the interior metal bushing and exterior metal bushing. Spray a lot of W-40 on it while you are doing it to keep it from binding. Approach it from both sides till through. 2. If you don't have access to a hole saw, then use a drill bit, as large as possible, and drill through the rubber between the interior and exterior metal bushings. Drill as many holes at needed until the interior metal bushing pushes out. Use W-40 liberally during the drilling. 3. When the interior metal bushing is removed, use a sawsall to cut through the exterior metal bushing, the one that is frozen into the differential. Yes, you have to be careful, so go slow. But you'll find that when you have just about cut all the way through the metal bushing, you'll be able to use a metal chisel to collapse it down and remove it. The method takes a whole lot less time and muscle.
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