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| Posted: 06-07-2005 04:55 am |
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1st Post |
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andrewo Member
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Does anyone know what the Lucas part number is for the starter and solenoid? My solenoid is definitely shot, and I am not too sure about the starter. A friend of mine with an MG Midget actually found rebuilt Lucas starters at the local auto part but I don't know which one I am asking for. The website for the Indian company still manufacturing these starters has a couple that look right, but has no cross reference information. Alternately, does anyone have experience with one of the several gear reduction units available? I have found several vendors below $200, which I don't think is too much more than a replacement for the Lucas. Thanks - Andrew
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| Posted: 06-07-2005 11:38 am |
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2nd Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Andrew, not sure about the part numbers but have you considered just getting yours rebuilt, the cost is usually less than $100 and you know it fit's. Brett.
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| Posted: 06-07-2005 01:52 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Brian Kelly Member
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Or go with used, they are listed on eBay all the time. I've never opened up the JH solenoid but some times it is just the contact that goes bad. if the solenoid is still actuating but not passing current then it can most likely be disassembled and the contacts flipped or replaced. I once had a Subaru solenoid go bad. The contact was pitted to the point that it no longer would make electrical contact. I replaced it by flattening a piece of copper pipe, bending it to form an "L" and drilling a mounting hole in it. The solution lasted for at least three years when I gave the car to charity. Brian
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| Posted: 06-07-2005 04:06 pm |
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4th Post |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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The Lucas numbers I have are: Starter assembly complete: 3M100, 25713, S3116. Solenoid : TOB159, 76876, 60933098. Bendix gear unit: 54249032. I don't have complete faith in some of these numbers but at least they're a start. You may wish to see if cleaning and maintenance will keep things working for a while. In many cases, this can add years to the life of a part. For electrical items, I've had good luck with brake cleaner and electrical contact cleaner. Aggressive solvents, which often will damage insulating materials, should be avoided. Removing the solenoid from the starter is simple and obvious. Partial disassembly of the starter motor itself, for cleaning of the case and armature, is fairly easy, but brush replacement is best left to an expert with the proper tools (which includes a spot welder). Cleaning the solenoid contacts is readily done with the aid of an abrasive or 'ink' eraser, or, if the contacts are severely cratered, emery cloth. Follow up by applying a very thin film of dielectric grease to the contact surfaces. If you remove the motor armature, clean its contact area in the same way. Note that the brushes make contact with the end of the armature, not the sides. DO NOT use dielectric grease here, as it will contaminate the brushes and shorten their lifespan. The solenoid interior and plunger should be cleaned but not lubricated. The Bendix mechanism should be cleaned, the gears and collar lightly oiled, and the shaft very lightly greased -- a high-temp wheel bearing grease containing MoS2 works very well here. Eventually, of course, you may need to replace the starter or some of its parts. Note that a replacement need not use new parts. With Lucas components in particular, it is often possible to mix-and-match to create one good unit from several defective cores. Attachment: starter motor 4.jpg (Downloaded 237 times)
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| Posted: 06-07-2005 04:09 pm |
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5th Post |
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Jim Ketcham Member
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Andrew, According to my records the following are Lucas P/Ns that are equivalent: 25615 = 25691 = 25710 = 25743 = 28691 = S3116 My starter catalog shows that anyone of these can replace the other and that all fit the Lotus 907. The JH parts manual indicates Lucas 25691. I have one I rebuilt on the bench that is 25691 and I notice one on eBay that says its from a 73 JH and appears to be 25710. Jim
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| Posted: 06-12-2005 03:38 pm |
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6th Post |
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Ron Earp Member 
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I've got a used one that worked fine. I replaced it with one of the gear reduction units you'll find on Ebay for asbout $189. These things are great, are smaller and lighter, and we've used them on a number of Brit cars - stronger and more positive. I'd recommend using one of these. But, if you've gotta have OEM and you want my used one send me $25 and it is yours, shipped UPS to you. Sorry Greg, just trying to help a fellow JHer out - and get some junk out of my garage. Ron
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| Posted: 06-14-2005 05:41 pm |
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7th Post |
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andrewo Member
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I decided to get one of the gear reduction units. I am not that worried about OE appearance, and now I know I will never have to worry about the starter. Maybe someone should write a review on these. Gustafson Machine seems to make them all for the various dealers that stock them, so maybe the club store could even sell them. Andrew
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| Posted: 05-01-2007 03:18 pm |
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8th Post |
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Mitch Ware Member 
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I've been thinking about replacing my starter now too. I have a problem in that it is drawing too much current. I had this same problem with my wife's TR6, the engine should start, but the starter is drawing so much current that it robs the spark of power and it won't fire. I replaced her starter and the car fired right up. Now with my JH I crank the car over and it is only when I release the key from the start position that the car fires and runs. Do the gear reduction starters have the 12v wire that comes from the solenoid and goes to the coil the way the Jh does? Mitch Ware http://home.nycap.rr.com/mware/
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| Posted: 05-01-2007 03:23 pm |
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9th Post |
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Ron Earp Member
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Gear reduction has a 12V lead that goes to the solinoid terminal and should come from the battery directly or a breakout terminal. In any case, heavy wire. There is a huge wire from the solinoid to the motor. And, you'll have your 12V lead from your key to the solinoid to turn it on and that is it. R
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| Posted: 05-02-2007 10:48 pm |
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10th Post |
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Tom Thomson Member
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Mitch My JH was acting the same way (firing when the key is released) and the problem was that the ballast resistor was not being bypassed on starting. Put a voltmeter on coil pos. The voltage should be 6 with the ign on, jump to 12 when cranking and drop back to 6 when running. Tom 13753
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| Posted: 05-03-2007 01:10 pm |
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11th Post |
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Mitch Ware Member
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Thanks Tom, I'll check it out when I get a chance. (My wife and I opened a restaurant 4 months ago, and that on top of running an auto-body shop hasn't given me much time for the toys) Mitch Ware #19670
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