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| MKI clutch replacement | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 04-02-2026 06:09 pm |
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1st Post |
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ShellKnobCat Member
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In my search for a JH I have found a '73 MKI that needs a clutch. Is this something that your average shade tree kinda mech (me) replace pretty easily? The parts are expensive so I would rather not have to pay labor too. Also can someone point me to a tutorial on JH clutch replacement? Thanks! Bill
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| Posted: 04-02-2026 08:11 pm |
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2nd Post |
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redracer Member
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Just happened to be on here when I saw this: YES, it is a DIY project(and NO, you do NOT need to remove the engine as the manual says). The one critical point to be careful of, is to pull the shift fork out of its :sprung" pivot point so you do not bend the spring steel out of shape, or you will likely need a new/used one. I am not going to write an entire article for this as it has been covered, but if you wish to email me or call I will help. SKYPE is no longer around but I do WhatsApp now for real-time aid my info is listed under my name, bruce/RedRacer
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| Posted: 04-02-2026 08:39 pm |
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3rd Post |
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ShellKnobCat Member
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Thanks Bruce, I did replace the clutch in my Austin-Healey Sprite many years ago but I don't remember much about it. I'm just trying to decide if I want to bid on a car that needs work or not.
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| Posted: 04-02-2026 08:56 pm |
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4th Post |
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redracer Member
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I use 5 hrs for R&R for the 4spd, but 6 hr for a 5spd. Again, I've done a lot of these so your time would probably be much longer. Keep us posted, bruce
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| Posted: 04-03-2026 01:45 pm |
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5th Post |
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noomg Member
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Bill, I don't know what kind of a budget you've got to work with but if you haven't noticed Jensen-Healeys are very cheap. For $15,000 you can get one in pristine condition, very nice drivers can be had for $7,000 to $10,000. Unless you're looking for a project you should buy the best one you can afford, you usually save money down the road and you can drive the the car right now. But if this is the car you want a clutch replacement shouldn't be that challenging especially since you are familiar with the process. That 4spd is fairly light weight and it's a project you can probably do over a weekend. And don't forget to check the age and condition of the timing belt.
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| Posted: 04-07-2026 01:27 am |
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6th Post |
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ShellKnobCat Member
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I found a nicer '74 MKII so don't need to do anything about a clutch! Thanks to all who responded.
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| Posted: 04-07-2026 01:11 pm |
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7th Post |
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noomg Member
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Bill, Wise choice! I'd talk to the seller to find out how old the timing belt is, if that info is unknown I'd plan on changing it.
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| Posted: 04-07-2026 01:13 pm |
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8th Post |
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ShellKnobCat Member
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He replaced the timing belt a year ago.
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| Posted: 04-08-2026 01:06 pm |
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9th Post |
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noomg Member
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Bill, Good news, that'll save you a step and it shows the PO knew something of the care and feeding of Jensen-Healeys.
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| Posted: 04-10-2026 08:29 pm |
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10th Post |
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vnavaret Member 
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ShellKnobCat wrote: I found a nicer '74 MKII so don't need to do anything about a clutch! Thanks to all who responded. If you do decide to do a clutch, use a low profile floor jack and a small ratcheting cargo strap to secure it to the floor jack. Makes wrestling it in an out pretty easy. The clutch is a standard TR6 clutch, available from many vendors. Don't forget to check the flywheel face for wear - mine was very worn with a scalloped surface. Very weird. I was planning on not having it resurfaced, but one look changed my mind. I also replaced the pilot and throw out bearings when I did mine. Cheap insurance against future problems. I got the pilot bearing off amazon. You can get clutch stuff there as well - no shipping charges if you are a prime member. Vance Last edited on 04-10-2026 08:29 pm by vnavaret |
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| Posted: 04-11-2026 02:24 pm |
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11th Post |
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noomg Member
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Vance, Good advice I'd just add one caveat. It used to be standard procedure whenever you had the tranny out for whatever reason you replaced the pressure plate, disc, and throw out bearing as a matter of course to zero time the clutch, but times have changed. When we were younger and our cars were daily drivers you could put 50,000 miles on that clutch before you saw it again so it made sense to change it even if it was still reasonably good, also replacements were cheap and you never gave a thought about their quality. The caveat is this, if the clutch still looks good you might consider not replacing it for two reasons. First, you already know it's working good and nowadays what's the mileage 2,000 to 3,000mi a year at most. Second, the quality of replacement parts not to mention they're not cheap anymore. If you try to save a buck and source parts from Asia or India you may be doing the clutch again in 1,500 mi. You'll pay more for parts from the UK or Europe but it'll be cheaper in the long run.
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