| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page:   1 2 |
|
|||||||||||||
| Oil Pressure | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 07-31-2019 03:35 pm |
|
21st Post |
|
Dakota123 Member
|
Agreed, sounds like the M/C pushrod adjustment. I've experienced this when trying to get as much slop out of the system as possible. Only takes a few minutes for heat from the exhaust to expand things and the return ports to block. Easy fix if that's indeed it -- well, I can't remember if the original booster has an adjustable pushrod or not; I have an aftermarket booster which does. Otherwise, would have to get a bit creative as Tom suggests. Personally, I like the gasket idea.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 08-01-2019 04:24 am |
|
22nd Post |
|
flatlanderep Member 
|
Tom, I read the post that you referenced and I need need to know where I find the booster actuator rod is located so I can adjust the knurled nut where it meets the master cylinder. Bruce, I misstated the temp of the radiator coolant. The device I used gives the temp that the coolant will protect the vehicle. So it is not the actual coolant temp. I called Delta and Jeff verified that it is a 2 stage thermostat, Hoses to and from the radiator are hot to the touch and this would indicate flow to the engine and through the radiator. I also ordered a new temp sensor that connects to the block because I don’t know if it is accurate,
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 08-01-2019 06:28 am |
|
23rd Post |
|
Tim Murphy Member 
|
I second what Tom Bradley suggested about the brakes locking up. You may not be able to adjust the booster pushrod, some are frozen. Just add spacer washers between booster and master cylinder. Or, for a test when the problem occurs, just loosen the master cylinder nuts to allow about 1/16" spacing and see if the problem goes away. Last edited on 08-01-2019 06:38 am by Tim Murphy |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 08-01-2019 03:17 pm |
|
24th Post |
|
Dakota123 Member
|
It's behind the M/C, loosen the two nuts and pull it away -- there is usually enough flex in the brake lines that you don;t need to disconnect them. You'll have to keep the rod from turning while you adjust the end piece. Attachment: booster.jpg (Downloaded 65 times)
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 08-02-2019 12:10 am |
|
25th Post |
|
flatlanderep Member
|
Ok I removed the master cylinder from the servo and how do I remove the rubber bullet nose to access knurled nut? See picture.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 08-02-2019 02:48 am |
|
26th Post |
|
flatlanderep Member
|
I removed the master cylinder and decided to put a washer that I slightly less than 1/16 in. I placed it so it is flush on the servo unit and then placed the lock washer and tightened the nut. I took it out for a 25 minute drive and brakes did not lock! Temp gauge did not increase and no burning smells like before. I would like to add that when the master cylinder was repacked in 2017 the British cat shop used a TR6 unit. I want to take it for a longer drive but I think it is fixed. Thanks for the great info from all. Steve
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 08-02-2019 06:51 am |
|
27th Post |
|
Dakota123 Member
|
Excellent, great to hear!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 08-02-2019 08:57 pm |
|
28th Post |
|
Tom Bradley Member
|
Glad you got it fixed. If you are going to keep the washers as a permanent fix, it might be good to fill in the gap with some silicone sealant or equivalent to keep dust and junk from getting into places where they were not intended to get.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Current time is 07:12 pm | Page: 1 2 |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > Oil Pressure | Top |
