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> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > Delta 4 into 1 header and steering column question |
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> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > Delta 4 into 1 header and steering column question |
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page: 1 2   |
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| Delta 4 into 1 header and steering column question | Rating: 
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| Posted: 03-30-2015 05:21 am |
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1st Post |
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answerman Member
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As detailed in my thread under "Projects", I am tackling the thankless task (using Kurt's words) of removing my old leaky exhaust manifold and replacing it with the Delta 4 into 1 header. Question for those of you who have done this: I know the new header is much more compact. Does the (LHD) steering column still have to thread through it? I assume it does, but a guy can always hope.
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| Posted: 03-30-2015 02:30 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Jim Ketcham Member
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Yes, the steering shaft has to thread thru it. Loosening the steering rack makes it easier to fit the shaft in. Also you may have to add or remove shims on the engine mounts to maintain shaft clearance.
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| Posted: 03-30-2015 08:05 pm |
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3rd Post |
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answerman Member
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Thanks Jim. All your points are noted (and appreciated)... I've been collecting information on this project for the last few months. I think I've read every post in the forum that contains the word "header" or "manifold". I'm a firm believer in researching the crap out of something before I tackle it, and I probably have 6 pages of notes copied and pasted from the various threads in the forum.
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| Posted: 04-03-2015 08:02 pm |
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4th Post |
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Earthscrew Member
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As a comment, I just installed a new exhaust system into 18809 last week. Prior to purchase, I spent the past 3 months researching various systems discussed on blogs and various other bits of information I could pick up on the web. Everyone tended to agree that the replacement systems offered today were noisy and ill fitting. I generally tend to believe that the manufacturer's engineers know more then most, so I elected to purchase the original type 3 piece system. I found the front and rear boxes at Dave Bean (still in boxes date stamped 1991)and the middle box I received from Martin Robey. Last Friday night I started the install after supper. After jacking up the body, not the frame, I slipped the pipes for the middle box over the axle, attached the rear box then attached the front box/pipe unit. The complete install from rear to the headers took 1 hr.15 min. Although the system was more expensive then what Delta has to offer, it was certainly easy to install and I am looking forward to the quiet ride I recall when the JH was new. I will be ordering the 2 piece header system that Martin Robey offers in the next week. Again, not cheap, but I can install it without removing the steering shaft.
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| Posted: 04-04-2015 01:09 am |
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5th Post |
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gmgiltd Member
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Just a word of warning about the Martin Robey stainless header - the standard of workmanship one I got from them last year was absolutely rubbish. Although the bolt holes lined up the ports didn't and the 'Y' piece was hard up against the frame rail and would not fit. By the time I discovered that I had ground out the ports to match the gaskets. I had to do a fair bit of fabricating to get it sorted out. I sent a strongly worded email with photographs attached to Keith Jackson there suggesting that he calibrate their suppliers and followed up with a phone call a month later to find out what their response was - he had not done anything about it. Make sure they have all the issues sorted out before you buy and also be aware that it is a three piece system - the 'Y' is a separate item. Gordon.
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| Posted: 04-04-2015 01:46 am |
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6th Post |
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Earthscrew Member
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Gordon< I appreciate your feedback, I guess I must have gotten lucky, as all three silencer and pipe units fit together like a glove. This is actually the first thing I have ever installed on this car that did not get a good swearing at! They "Y", middle box and "U" bolt connection hardware came from Martin Robey, with the front and back silencers coming from Dave Bean. It appears to me that maybe you telling them where the system needed improvement worked out well for me! As I first indicated, I have been reading so many horror stories about the noise put out by the other systems, some said they could not even hear the radio, which I just could not handle. In 1975 my best friend purchased a 1974 JH, what I remember about that care vividly, was how quick it was, and how quiet. Once I get the headers on I guess I will find out if it was worth the extra money! Ken
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| Posted: 04-04-2015 01:52 am |
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7th Post |
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Earthscrew Member
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Gordon, I got carried away on the rest of the system and neglected to discuss your comment regarding the headers, so sorry! As I have not ordered the two piece yet, I will take your advise and give Craig a call to discuss your issues. Again, I am really hoping that they took your suggestions to heart! Thank you again for the input, Ken
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| Posted: 04-04-2015 02:02 am |
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8th Post |
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gmgiltd Member
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Hi Ken, It's the header that I am talking about - it would not physically fit because one pipe was where it should be but the other was wedged against the frame. There was no way that the y at the end of the header would fit. I would suggest that you check that they have fixed the problem - it's an expensive item not only to buy but also to ship back an forth across the Atlantic- I assume you are in the US.. Gordon
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| Posted: 04-04-2015 02:17 am |
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9th Post |
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Earthscrew Member
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Gordon, I will definitely give them a call to discuss before I order. If they have not addressed the problems, I will need look into the Delta 4-1 unit I guess. I will let you know what I find out before I order, then after I install. Best regards, Ken
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| Posted: 01-17-2016 04:30 am |
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10th Post |
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dbeliveau74 Member 
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Hi guys, Any update on this Ken? Thanks Dan
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| Posted: 01-17-2016 07:50 am |
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11th Post |
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gmgiltd Member
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I don't know if Martin Robey have fixed their system or not - you would have to confirm and be aware that the manifold ports need a fair bit of internal grinding. It might be a good idea to give Mike Taylor at Lotusbits a call - they have recently started manufacturing a stainless system of a similar design but it is beautifully welded and finished - you would have to check with him that it is suitable for left hand drive and clears the steering shaft. Gordon
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| Posted: 01-17-2016 05:13 pm |
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12th Post |
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Earthscrew Member
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Dan, I completed my exhaust installation and am more the happy with my choices. The one piece header from JHPS was an absolute factory fit. All header studs fit perfectly into header plate, plate was flat with no distortion of any kind. I installed the header onto the freshly re-built engine and dropped it into the car with a cherry picker fitted with a crank style engine level assist from Harbor Freight. I could not believe this, but when I completed setting the engine (with trans attached) onto the motor mounts, I looked underneath and saw that the header discharge had fit itself into the new exhaust system on it's own! I have no experiance with others headers to compare this system to, but this combination of factory silencers and muffler, combined with the single discharge of the JHPS unit, is as good as it gets. This car runs smooth and quite, just what I wanted. Good luck! Ken
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| Posted: 02-28-2016 05:14 am |
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13th Post |
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Randallclary@icloud.com Member
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Yes it does have to thread thru the exhaust. It is tight, but can me made to clear the headers. We finally had to make some bigger openings on the transmission rear support to allow more adjustment. We actually improved the allignment of the tail shaft and the transmission to differential and finally got a great fit. The full turn of the steering wheel left to right gets the steering shaft within 1/16 of an inch. There is a fair amount of adjustment with the engine mounts. We got the engine fairly high up with the use of spacer washers. 1 on one side and 2 on the other. I don't remember which side has more spacers.
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| Posted: 03-28-2016 10:20 pm |
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14th Post |
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dbeliveau74 Member
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Looking for the 4 into 1 headers everyone seems to be out! Also what is the source for the triple layer SS header gasket? I didn't see them listed in the JHPS store, Delta nor Martin Robey! Thanks, Dan
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| Posted: 03-29-2016 06:57 pm |
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15th Post |
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gmgiltd Member
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Try Mike Taylor at Lotusbit's or Gary Kemp or possibly QED for the gaskets- Mike should be able to provide a stainless header as well. Gordon
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| Posted: 03-29-2016 08:43 pm |
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16th Post |
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Jim Ketcham Member
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They appear to be listed in the club store when I just checked.
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| Posted: 01-18-2017 05:03 am |
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17th Post |
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dbeliveau74 Member
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Finally got the header now to install it!! My Jensen Healey Shop manual Printed by Motorbooks International doesn't describe this procedure. I've read on here about 2 possibilities 1 remove the engine completely an 2 unbolt the left motor mount and loosen the others and tilt the engine. is there an approved or best solution. I'm in tight quarters in my garage and an engine hoist will be tight. Where would one attach the lifting chain...? Or jack the block from under with wood to block against the alum oil pan? Also I have to replace the steering column bushing at the firewall and that isn't described at all. ;-{
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| Posted: 01-19-2017 04:03 am |
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18th Post |
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Tom Bradley Member
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1 Forget about removing the engine, way too much work 2 Raising the engine a bit makes it easier to get at some of the bolts holding the header on, but is not absolutely necessary. When I have replaced the header, I usually raise the left side of engine with the floor jack and soft wood between the jack and the engine to distribute the pressure you described. With my current header, I also need to add an extra 1/4" spacer under the left-hand engine mount to keep the header from hitting the steering column when everything is back together. From what I have read, others have had the same sort of problem. You also need to disconnect the steering column at least at one end, disconnecting both ends makes removal and installation easier. If you are going to replace the bushing, might as well do it that way. Reaching all the header bolts is also easier if you remove the front left wheel. The tools I needed to remove the bolts were open end and box wrenches as well as a ratchet wrench with long extensions and a u-joint. A good quality 12mm socket also makes things easier: cheap ones tend jam up more. Sorry, I cannot help with details of replacing the bushing. I have never done it. Hope the rest is some help.
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| Posted: 01-19-2017 01:10 pm |
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19th Post |
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subwoofer Member
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The steering column bushing is a walk in the park, once you have the other bits off it should be self explanatory. Remember that you have to remove the clamp bolt on the knuckles for the knuckes to come off. The Delta header may be more install friendly than the original, installing and tightening the 12 nuts took me the better part of 2 hours of extreme yoga. -- Joachim
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| Posted: 01-20-2017 03:56 am |
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20th Post |
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dbeliveau74 Member
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Found Greg's tech notes on installation of the header checked the steering going to need a steering bushing for the firewall now. gotta get some 13mm wrenches to modify to make the job easier. cheers, Dan
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