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Oil pump rebuild  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 11-02-2020 02:49 pm
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redracer
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You may want to rig up a colorless line from the block where the plastic tube come out: the threaded side into the engine block plate is 1/8" NPT(27 threads/inch; however, the other side going into the plastic line is 1/8" BSP--28 threads/inch) . Put the colorless tube onto a barbed fitting and run that into some kind of catch tank so you don't make a mess.
Also, I would suggest spinning the shaft with a 17mm bolt instead of the 6mm allen hole, as the hole WILL get wallowed out.
keep us posted, bruce

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 Posted: 11-02-2020 08:39 pm
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Harkes
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Thanks Bruce,

great idea to use a transparant/colorless line and a catch tank at the other end.
we'll keep you posted.

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 Posted: 11-09-2020 10:13 am
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Harkes
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Good news, we have good oil pressure readings!

Took the drive belt of again this weekend, took the oil pressure line off and cleaned it. Checked the oil pressure gauge with pressed air to see if it still worked and it did. So with the oil pressure line off I spun the aux pulley until I saw oil gushing out the other end (and into a water bottle which I taped off to prevent a mess).

I then connected the oil pressure line again, spun it some more and instantly I had very good oil pressure reading on the gauge. I had my daughter checking the gauge in the car and filming it. It is a bit of a flimsy video, but I'm very happy all is good now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AMr4na8YNw

Installed the JAE blue racing belt (half moon type) again and tensioned it at 100 Hz using the Gates Carbon Drive app. Now need to check static timing, recharge battery and then it is time to fire this baby up.

Thanks for your help all

Last edited on 11-09-2020 10:14 am by Harkes

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 Posted: 11-09-2020 11:34 am
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Harkes
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With the fuel pump happily ticking and carbs working properly again, new oil, oil filter and coolant, I'm getting close to starting the engine.

(a month or two go I had to completely clean the carbs inside out as there was no fuel coming out at all. This was a fun and rewarding project by the way. Not only do they function properly again, but they look like new as well.)

Just a quick picture of what the engine bay looks like now.

Attachment: IMG_6163.jpeg (Downloaded 61 times)

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 Posted: 11-09-2020 02:10 pm
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redracer
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we're all happy to hear you got that sorted out--so exactly, what was the problem?
Noticed the pressure only went to just above 50psi(the original relief was set at 55psi). With COLD oil, the initial pressure should be much higher and as it warms up, it will drop down. Hopefully, your drill has a 3000rpm(or higher) setting on it(if you used a cordless one, then the low psi is understandable)

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 Posted: 11-09-2020 02:54 pm
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Harkes
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Hi Bruce,

thanks and well spotted. My drill is a cordless one which goes up to about 250 rpm and I didn't run it at full speed either as I was still using the allen bit and I didn't want to ruin the aux pulley allen bolt.

I think to be honest I did not spin the aux pulley long enough the first time around. I stopped when I saw lots of oil coming up at the cams and thought that was good enough.

Second time around I waited until oil came out the other end of the oil pressure line which took just a little longer... I don't think the oil pressure line was clogged or anything as almost nothing came out when I blew it out with pressed air.

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 Posted: 11-09-2020 03:20 pm
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redracer
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removing the allen bolt may be a little daunting at first, but if you use a set of vise grips on the large washer(yes, it WILL leave some indentation marks) and rotate that along with the allen screw(put a rod through one of the sprocket holes to prevent it form rotating), it should come apart so you could use a hex bolt for the pump priming. Recommend antisieze when reinstalling

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 Posted: 11-09-2020 04:49 pm
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Harkes
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I will certainly do that a next time. I don't want to wear out the allen bolt on the aux pulley in the near future.

For now my cordless tool was really handy and got the job done. My oil pump is primed and I feel confident that it builds good oil pressure given the limited rpm.

My guess is that I ran the pulley around 150 to 200 rpm. If I would run it all full speed (250 rpm) with a hex bolt, I don't think it would give a much higher oil pressure reading. For that I would need a tool that would allow 3000 rpm or more as you said.

I will run final checks (as I have done quite a few updates this year on the car) and try and start her up....cross fingers.

Last edited on 11-09-2020 04:50 pm by Harkes

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 Posted: 11-10-2020 11:47 pm
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discogodfather
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Nice engine compartment!

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