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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page:   1 2 3 |
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| Front suspension | Rating: 
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| Posted: 01-17-2015 08:58 pm |
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41st Post |
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Screenplay Member
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Hi Eric, Flat side UP against the rubber seat that sits against the subframe. The lower control arm is shaped to accept the bottom of the spring and will fit only one way. Upon reassembly, before the bottom side of the spring and the lower arm make contact, rotate the spring until it fits "snugly" in that lower control arm. You'll see the contour and how it fits. It sounds as if you're making some real progress. If only I could get mine to move as quickly! Best of luck. Clinton Last edited on 01-17-2015 10:36 pm by Screenplay |
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| Posted: 01-18-2015 12:58 am |
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42nd Post |
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Eric Member
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Okay thanks! It seems like it makes more sense to mount the spring in the lower control arm first, though.
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| Posted: 01-18-2015 01:35 am |
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43rd Post |
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Screenplay Member
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Eric, Yes, that does make good sense, especially if you're using a floor jack to push it all together. I always use an internal spring compressor and it moves around a lot while I'm loosening the bolt and I end up having to rotate it back into place. Clinton
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| Posted: 01-18-2015 01:43 am |
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44th Post |
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Eric Member
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Yes..I'm using the floor jack. I have to wonder how the people who mounted the spring flat side down got it to engage in the lower arm.
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| Posted: 01-24-2015 02:51 am |
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45th Post |
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Eric Member
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Just wanted to say "thank you" for all the helpful advice above. Cannot imagine doing this without the tips of others. Got new front springs, shocks, tie rod ball joints and steering boots replaced. As was mentioned above, using two floor jacks when reassembling helps line up the shock bracket, castor rod and lower control arm so you can drop in those two bolts. For what it's worth, I kept the solitary inboard shock mounting bolt attached to the shock mounting plate, although loosened. The shock was still able to fall out between the two halves of the mounting bracket. Doing this seemed to make aligning the two outboard mounting bolts fairly easy on assembly.
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| Posted: 11-01-2016 09:52 pm |
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46th Post |
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little red Member
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Finally three days and the front springs and shocks are installed. The PO rounded most of the nuts on the front end. Between a file, vice grips, hammer and chisel a little heat and plenty of blaster I managed to get it all apart. little red is riding a little higher and much smother due to the Bilstein shocks. The rear springs and shocks were a cake walk compared to the front. But all is well that ends well. Thanks again to Greg for having the Bilsteins available.
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| Posted: 09-07-2023 02:57 am |
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47th Post |
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dbeliveau74 Member 
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I have read this thread several times trying to get everything of info. I have everything apart except the crossmember. Bra ed the engine removed the motor mount nuts, loosened the pinch bolt on the lower u joint of the steering arm, removed nuts from the frame mount bolts for the crossmember bushings, lower fulcrum bolts are loose and moved forward. I am still unable to lower the crossmember am I missing something? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Dan.
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| Posted: 09-08-2023 02:15 am |
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48th Post |
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dbeliveau74 Member
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Anyone have any insight? Everything is down but the crossmember. Got the steering rack D bolts out, steering rack down, lower arms down, but the crossmember still seems attached to the lower frame?? Is there another attaching bolt i missed? All my workshop manuals and parts catalog have the same diagram. Unless the PO welded the crossmember to the frame I can't imagine what is holding it together. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Cheers, Dan
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| Posted: 09-10-2023 07:27 pm |
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49th Post |
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Tom Bradley Member
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Did you also remove the mounting to crossmember bolts (#4 on the pic)? if so, then it is likely, that the crossmember is just being held on by pressure between the crossmember and the mounting assembly. Try spraying this area with WD-40, or some such and using a rubber mallet to tap the crossmeber down. Attachment: Front suspension detail.jpg (Downloaded 48 times)
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| Posted: 09-10-2023 08:59 pm |
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50th Post |
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dbeliveau74 Member
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Yes I did remove the bolt #4. It seems to be firmly attached to the lower frame. Even after removing the steering rack. Attachment: Frt Susp Torques.gif (Downloaded 46 times)
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| Posted: 09-10-2023 09:08 pm |
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51st Post |
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dbeliveau74 Member
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Son of a gun!! I just noticed something as I was looking at my parts catalog! The rear crossmember mounting bolt. It appears that is the culprit!;)
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| Posted: 09-10-2023 09:15 pm |
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52nd Post |
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dbeliveau74 Member
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So now my question is does #3 mounting assembly need to be replaced? And is it available? I'll check the club store, etc. After this I think I'll write up a tech article about this job in a little more detail than I found. Cheers! Dan Attachment: Screenshot_20230910-163849_Chrome.jpg (Downloaded 47 times) Last edited on 09-10-2023 10:54 pm by dbeliveau74 |
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| Posted: 09-11-2023 03:08 am |
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53rd Post |
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Tom Bradley Member
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Not sure if the mounting assembly needs to be replaced. What sort of condition is it in? It looks like it may have some rubber cushioning which could go bad. Depends on how thorough and conservative a job you want to do. Martin Robey has them in stock. Delta motorsports may as well.
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| Posted: 09-11-2023 08:15 pm |
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54th Post |
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redracer Member
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Dan: just saw this new thread; glad to see you found the "missing" link and have it down. I would strongly suggest you add a 1/8" or more washer/plate to the front of the subframe for the lower arm bolt.. Here's a link from a previous post I did on this: http://www.jensenhealey.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=2717&forum_id=8&highlight=lower+arm Please call/email/ or SKYPE me if you need further help. All my info is in my profile. bruce/redracer
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