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| Front suspension refresh questions/concern | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 10-05-2023 06:56 pm |
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1st Post |
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LSGTjunior Member
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Into replacing bushings, ball joints on my ‘74, 18205. I don’t believe anything’s been replaced from new - upper balljoints rivited. The lower arm bushing shell edge seems to have been bent or distorted maybe upon original pressing or over time(?). Please see attached pic. I am replacing with Superpro bushings which require removing the old rubber and retaining/reusing the steel shell in place. Do any of you think this slightly bent/distorted shell edge will affect the proper seating or performance of the Superpro bushing? Also, my lower arms have an attachment point for presumably an anti sway bar. Before me removing them from the crossmember, this mounting point faced forward but seems to me if a antisway bar were to be attached, this mount would prolly have face to the rear. Don’t know if I’ll ever want to add a antisway bar but if I were to some day, do I want to replace the lower arms with the mounts facing back? And is this even a thing - are the lower arms symetrical in that they will have proper geometry if I swap left for right and vice versa? The JH is a new challenge for me though I have a reasonable amount of experience on Alfa and the big Healey’s in the past. Now a rookie in a new league! Attachment: F837FC4C-721C-43DF-A6CC-5D14363FFC77.jpeg (Downloaded 123 times)
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| Posted: 10-06-2023 01:18 am |
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2nd Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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I'm not sure from the photo but that could be just from use over time. Especially if they are the original ones and have worn out some. Initially I don't think it would be an issue replacing with the Superpro bushings. How does it feel when you drive it? I believe there is a picture in the workshop manual with dimensions you could check. I do not have any experience with installing the Superpro bushings but when I did the replacement on one of my cars it was a pain getting the old ones out. Putting in the new ones was pretty easy. Yes, you can turn around the lower arms so the attachment plate faces back. In case you ever install a sway bar. Better to do it now when you have the chance rather than later when you change your mind and have to go through the whole process again. It seems a lot oh JHs were shipped that way.
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| Posted: 10-06-2023 02:31 am |
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3rd Post |
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LSGTjunior Member
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Hi Art - thanks for the quick reply. Agreed the pic does not show well but really just a portion of the outer edge is bent inward a bit so the opening is a bit out of round. I’ll go ahead with the shell as is and keep fingers crossed. The front end is/was pretty loose and twitchy, probably from many contributing factors especially a loosely snugged wheel bearing, bad ball joint(s) and poor alignment but not the bushing I’d guess. I’m looking forward to the refreshed front end for sure! Thanks also for the confirmation on swapping the lower suspension arms. Now on the list.
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| Posted: 10-06-2023 02:17 pm |
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4th Post |
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noomg Member
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Junior, I don't know how far along you are with this project but the J/H has a neat feature, you can drop the whole front suspension clip as a unit so you can overhaul it on a work bench from a standing position. You'll need to support the motor from above but a 4x4 and a cable will take care of that. I wish I'd known that when I did mine I spent a lot of time crouched under the wheel wells with limited access.
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| Posted: 10-06-2023 02:45 pm |
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5th Post |
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redracer Member
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Jr: noomg is correct in that you can remove the front suspension fairly easily by his method. Art is also correct in that the lower arms(as well as the upper wishbones) are interchangeable. However, the adding of a FRONT sway bar is NOT needed, UNLESS you plan on making a full racecar. A rear sway bar would be preferred, but adjustable SPAX shocks take care of that as well. Your lower arm flange was likely distorted from someone (long ago) using too large "socket"/whatever trying to press the bushing out(I have seen this many times). Using heat, cutting hole tools, hack saw(to cut lightly into the outer metal casing) will likely be needed--good luck! One thing I HIGHLY recommend is the welding of a 1/8" or thicker plate to the front of the subframe for the lower arm(here's my link: http://www.jensenhealey.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=2717&forum_id=8&highlight=lower+arm Right now, I just happen to be redoing the entire front subframe on th GT I purchased from the late Joe Mazurk. My email, SKYPE, phone # are listed under my profile, so please contact me(even if you need a better lower arm) if you wish. take care, bruce/redracer
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| Posted: 10-06-2023 04:33 pm |
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6th Post |
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LSGTjunior Member
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noomg & Bruce - appreciate the knowledge and guidance! I have toyed w the idea of dropping the subframe but backed off initially cuz of concerns about supporting the engine properly. If from below, using the cast sump seemed a risk even with something to spread the load and figuring a proper support that didn’t impede all the usable work space. I did think about supporting from above but concerned about where to place a crossbar so as not to bend something and I couldn’t figure out where to attach a strap or cable to the motor. So…been dismantling from the wheel wells while the car’s on quickjacks. I would prefer dropping the whole crossmember to clean up everything and reinforce where Bruce recommends and also replace the old hardened motor mounts so back on this idea thanks to the prodding here. noomg - where do you recommend I place the crossbar support and a cable or strap to or around the motor? I’m kinda stumped on this and don’t want to damage something. I do love your 4x4 support piece solution. I was way overthinking this part🤔
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| Posted: 10-07-2023 01:54 pm |
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7th Post |
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noomg Member
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Junior, Yes, I believe you may be overthinking it. The motor is very light and is already partially supported by the transmission. You can cut the 4x4 to fit between the fenders on the fender bead where the fender attachment screws are. There's also a Wheeler Dealers J/H episode that you can dig up where Ant supported the motor and dropped the front end and see how he did it.
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| Posted: 10-11-2023 12:48 am |
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8th Post |
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LSGTjunior Member
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Progress and a setback! I took noomg’s guidance (and found/watched the Wheeler Dealer 74JH episode), supported the engine from above and removed the crossmember complete. As I had already used the floor jack technique to remove the lf spring before deciding to tackle the crossmember removal, I only have one to remove now that it’s on the bench. Been disassembling, removing old bushings and prepping for painting while waiting for an internal spring compressor ordered to compress/remove this remaining in place spring. Got it today but the hooks used to grab the spring coils are too wide in their ‘folded’ position to get through ~2.75”id opening of the lower suspension arm. So this one will be returned am I’m now in the hunt for a smaller, narrower compressor. There must be one out there that works and hopefully no way will I have to reinstall the crossmember just to get the other spring off. If anybody has ideas of where to source a proper sized compressor please let me know. Meanwhile I’ll be searching all the usual tools sources for a solution. I feel like an idiot and should have just removed the 2nd spring before dropping the whole assembly.
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| Posted: 10-11-2023 02:29 pm |
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9th Post |
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noomg Member
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Junior, The problem I have with internal spring compressors is one size does not fit all. If you have a lot of cars that's a problem. I use an external compressor which works on everything from a Suburban to a J/H. They are big so on a smaller applications like J/H I just use one hook top and bottom on both sides of the spring. It can be cumbersome and require a bit of work around but I've never failed to remove a spring. Also I would think it would be easier on the bench.
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| Posted: 10-11-2023 04:56 pm |
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10th Post |
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LSGTjunior Member
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Completely understand and agree with your reasoning and approach. Being new to the JH I did not go get a pair of the ‘outside’ type as was unsure the screw of the external style spring compressors would clear the edge of the suspension arms. The spring is so narrow and the arms extend well past the outer spring edges. So my approach was to remove them using the floor jack method while still in place under the car. I’ve used that way a lot and am very comfortable with it. After watching the W/D episode I was impressed with the way Ant removed the springs on the bench and convinced myself that was the way to go - doing everything on the bench, being able to clean and paint everything and return the entire refreshed assembly - including the reinstalled springs, when done. Anyway, I’m in it now and think I found one that’ll work locally, the same style Ant used. Eventually this’ll all be done, the assembly back in tight, clean and shiny and I’ll be a bit more knowledgeable on JH stuff. Thanks for your patience and willingness to help this rookie.
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| Posted: 10-12-2023 04:15 pm |
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11th Post |
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noomg Member
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Junior, It ultimately comes down to what method works best for you, I've also had success using a floor jack. Another problem you may encounter during disassembly is the long bolt holding the upper "A" arm in place. On my car the left one was bent so it couldn't be just extracted normally and working in the wheel well there was no room to drive it out with a hammer and punch. I had to twist it out with vice grips an inch at a time cut it off and repeat the process, it took hours to get it out. If the suspension had been on the bench I could had drive the bolt out in a few minutes. That's just to give you an idea of how much easier this project will be on the bench. To say nothing of your back and knees!
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| Posted: 11-07-2024 06:21 pm |
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12th Post |
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LSGTjunior Member
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Have cleaned, painted and reassemble most all the bits on the crossmember. The superpro upper bushings sid not work as the crush tubes are too long and won’t allow the bolt/washers to suck up to the bushing faces. So the upper arm could slide laterally on the bolt a bit. Mike/Delta was kind enough to work through this and we were able to confirm the arms were not distorted so he sent a replacement set of the ‘stock’ upper bushings. So press out non fitting, press in new and all’s good. Questions on a grease seal and on use of an existing thin metal shield on the spindle/hub - On disassembly, there was a ‘shield’ on the inboard side of the inner wheel bearing but no other seal. I purchased a pair of the grease seals from jhps which mount at the inboard opening of the hub and then slip over/onto the spindle ‘shoulder’. Do I continue to use the metal shields in addition to the new seal? Does the seal get installed with the open side facing into the hub or facing inboard towards the center of the car? Lastly, test fitting the new grease seal on the spindle shoulder it seems kinda snug. So once pressed into the hub opening and in service as it rotates on the spindle will this create heat and cause the seal to fail or worse?
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| Posted: 11-08-2024 01:46 pm |
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13th Post |
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redracer Member
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The later cars had that inner "shield" which I always get rid of and use a "normal seal instead, as you have done. SOP is to "smear" a thin coating of grease onto the inner spindle shaft where the rubber seal would rotate. Another good tip is to ALWAYS put a thin coating of Permatex #2 onto the outer metal seal casing and the part where it gets pressed onto. This applies to ALL metal cased seals, such as the rear 4 speed transmission and differential seals(originally, these seals had outer rubber casings, but the replacements are now metal)
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| Posted: 11-08-2024 04:38 pm |
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14th Post |
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LSGTjunior Member
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Thanks Bruce. Always appreciate your knowledge and guidance! Thin metal shields will be retired. The seals I got from Greg have a hard rubber coating on the outer face so think I’ll just press in without any #2 unless you feel a more secure seal is needed. Attachment: IMG_1699.jpeg (Downloaded 35 times)
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| Posted: 11-08-2024 04:45 pm |
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15th Post |
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redracer Member
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If the outer casing is rubber, a slight coating of grease or silicone will make insertion easier
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| Posted: 11-21-2024 04:39 am |
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16th Post |
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LSGTjunior Member
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Hi again - this crossmember rebuild is getting the best of me at every step. I and it are ready to lift and mount back where it belongs… Except for the outrigger bushings. They have gotten the best of me. I have the Superpro poly bushings and for the ilfe of me I cannot press them onto/through the opening where they belong. I cannot get the tapered tip started in the hole to press through. Always one part of the edge hangs up on the hole’s edge. It seems the beveled front edge is too large for the opening. I’m using the supplied grease and am not trying this with the crush tube in place. I’m considering getting the dremel out and beveling/chamfering the inner edge of the opening hoping that would allow the bushing ‘tip’ to get a start. Has anybody else had this issue and have any sage advice or tips how to get these bushings mounted? I’m about at wit’s end. Thanks in advance for any help. Need to get this JH off the quickjacks and allow me to get to the next thing it wants to teach me. Last edited on 11-21-2024 04:43 am by LSGTjunior |
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| Posted: 11-22-2024 03:33 am |
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17th Post |
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LSGTjunior Member
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OK - It’s been a crazy couple days here with over 18” of rain falling since early Wednesday morning. Aside from a flooded car and other water related issues I did have time to work on the outrigger bushings install. After chamfering the opening with the dremel, using lots of lubricant I was finally able to press one in with stubborn edges being jammed into the opening with a large flat screwdriver and then pressing the crush tube into place. I think I have it now and hope to get the final one in over the next day or two. After that the crossmember will be rehung.
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