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> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Suspension > Winter projects: front wheel bearings, differential seal. |
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> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Suspension > Winter projects: front wheel bearings, differential seal. |
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| Winter projects: front wheel bearings, differential seal. | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 10-05-2009 10:20 pm |
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1st Post |
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edward_davis Member 
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Hello, Two of my winter projects are repacking and tightening the front wheel bearings (they're too loose for my comfort) and replacing the oil seal on my differential. Any tips? The differential seal appears to be the biggest pain, according to the shop manual. It's leaking enough oil that it's all sloppy, though, so I feel a need to do it. Plus, I'll have the transmission out for my rear main seal project, so I have to pull the driveshaft anyway. Thanks for the help. This forum has made my JH habit easier to bear.... Cheers, Edward
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| Posted: 10-05-2009 10:48 pm |
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2nd Post |
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JodyKerr Member 
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If you're going to go to all the trouble, I'd also do the seals in the axles. When those go, oil leaks out and causes your brake shoes to disintegrate. And if you're going to do that, you might as well give the brakes a one over. And, while you've got everything disassembled you might was well sandblast and paint it all. And if you keep following my advice, by spring you'll have a pile of parts instead of a car. :) At least the winters are long up north. :) Jody
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| Posted: 10-06-2009 12:38 am |
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3rd Post |
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Judson Manning Member 
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Edward, When tightening the bearings, you may want to inspect the hub and the spindle for wear first. I made the mistake of over-tightening a wheel bearing to only have it melt down and explode after 70 miles. Judson
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| Posted: 10-06-2009 07:05 pm |
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4th Post |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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On the pinion seal, count the number of threads from the end to the nut before you loosen it (you need to remove the flange to change the seal) and mark the location with something. When you put that nut back and retighten it, you'll need to get it in the same spot to be sure the preload is as close as possible to original. When I did this, I also lightly stalked the flange nut with a small punch to insure it would not remove itself at a later date. I remember that being fairly snug!
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| Posted: 03-01-2010 05:51 pm |
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5th Post |
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edward_davis Member
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OK, so I got the driveshaft out and looked in at the flange nut, and it seems to have drifted from its original staked setting. In fact, it looks like the staked place is about 10 degrees clockwise from the notch on the threaded shaft. Could this be b/c a PO pulled it apart and didn't bother to stake the nut when he put it back togther? Or could it be a sign that the nut has shifted during use? What could be the problems by a nut that is slightly overtightened? Another question: how much roatational play should there be in the pinion shaft? When I twist the pinion shaft back and forth, I have about 10-15 degrees of freedom. Thanks, Edward
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| Posted: 03-02-2010 02:01 pm |
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6th Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Ed, backlash on your pinion and gear teeth need to be measured at the teeth, while you might get an indication of wear by turning the flange it's not a true reading. Spec's say lash should be .005 to .007 in. Brett
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