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Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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Degreasing agents? | Rate Topic |
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Posted: 02-13-2009 09:02 pm |
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1st Post |
subwoofer Member
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I am readying the suspension parts for painting, and getting the Mercasol undercoat and lots of old road grime off was easy enough using diesel fuel and a paint brush, but on some parts, like the brake shield, the diesel didn't really cut it. Old bearing grease is sticky stuff, apparently. Brake cleaner didn't really do much, either. Lacquer thinner seemed make an impression, but I'm reluctant to using too much of that, not exactly good for anyone's health. I am thinking a tub of hot water and a good sprinkle of dishwasher powder, waddaya think? Any experience to share? What does the pros use? -- Joachim
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Posted: 02-13-2009 09:28 pm |
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2nd Post |
Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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Rent a pressure washer.
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Posted: 02-13-2009 10:06 pm |
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3rd Post |
Jensenman Member
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A little heat goes a long way on the really stubborn stuff. Borrow a torch and heat the surface stuff, keep the flame moving and scrape with a putty knife or use a wire brush. The stuff will fall right off. It's not necessary to get the metal red. In fact you can do it with a propane torch, it's just slower. Of course, do this outside! Take all normal fire precautions.
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Posted: 02-14-2009 12:09 am |
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4th Post |
JodyFKerr Member
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My favorites are: Oven Cleaner POR-15 Marine Clean The dishwasher (when the wife's not looking) Other old standby's are brake cleaner & carb cleaner.
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Posted: 02-14-2009 08:02 am |
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5th Post |
subwoofer Member
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Didn't think of the oven cleaner, but yeah, I could see that working! Getting the wife away from the house for long enough to run parts in the dishwasher without getting caught isn't easy these days, but I'll keep it in mind. Just received a full POR-15 kit (Marine Clean, Metal Ready and the paint itself), but I hadn't tried any of it yet. Sounds like the Marine Clean may be the ticket here. I wish Santa could bring me an ultrasonic cleaner in December... -- Joachim
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Posted: 02-14-2009 03:09 pm |
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6th Post |
JodyFKerr Member
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If thy didn't send you one, get a spray bottle for the marine clean.
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Posted: 02-14-2009 03:31 pm |
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7th Post |
subwoofer Member
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They sent the sprayer, but not a spare bottle. It should be diluted 1:5 before use, right? How good is it, by the way? I've been through a load of "wonder soaps" over the years, they hardly ever deliver as promised. -- Joachim
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Posted: 02-14-2009 03:59 pm |
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8th Post |
JodyFKerr Member
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Ok, I'm a really big fan of the POR-15 stuff in general, especially the paint. Mix is 1:3 instead of 1:5. Make *sure* you're wearing gloves & safety goggles when you're using it. If it's a part that needs scrubbing I really like using a toothbrush, dishwashing brush, etc. in tandem with the Marine clean. It's all biodegradeable, so you can rinse with water afterwards.
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Posted: 02-14-2009 06:43 pm |
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9th Post |
Joel Member
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The POR 15 stuff is good. I think that Simple Green is probably just as good. I love that stuff! Instead of diluting Simple Green use it straight.
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Posted: 02-14-2009 10:18 pm |
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10th Post |
Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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Oven cleaner is lye and will remove anodizing from aluminum. Be careful! Kurt
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Posted: 02-15-2009 04:55 pm |
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11th Post |
smcmanus Member
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Citri-clean is good stuff and won't harm anything but the grunge. Old fashioned Gunk works good with a brush and some added elbow brease. Gunk Foamy Engine Brite doesn't seem to work so well. I use mineral spirits in my parts cleaner and with a brush, it cuts though most anything. In a pinch, I discovered that Fast Orange hand cleaner is actually an excellent parts cleaner. It also rinses off with water and you can wash your hands at the same time! Good Luck Steve
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Posted: 02-15-2009 09:05 pm |
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12th Post |
subwoofer Member
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Hand cleaner? Heck, why not? I just came in from the garage, tried out the POR-15 Marine Clean. I'm impressed! I guess it only counts as a rough clean for now, didn't get everything completely right, but I think I have figured out how to use it properly now. Two buckets of hot water, a wash basin and a spray bottle seems to be a good way. Try to keep the water in one bucket fairly clean, working on the parts in the basin, while the other bucket gets all the goo running off the parts. Keeping the parts nice and hot really improved the effectiveness. Things are looking brighter now, I was fearing the worst after the diesel failed. No more diesel for me, as the MC took care of the undercoat easily! -- Joachim
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Posted: 02-16-2009 06:19 am |
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13th Post |
edward_davis Member
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I've had some recent luck with WD-40 and old engine oil and/or transmission oil. Edward
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Posted: 02-16-2009 06:31 am |
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14th Post |
JodyFKerr Member
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A couple extra things to add. When I last had to replace my water heater I plumbed an extra hot water line to the garage. I also put on a spur line that connects to the garden hose (and a high pressure nozzle). That's brilliant for getting things clean. Finally, regardless of how well cleaning agents work, my favorite cleaning tool is still my sanblasting rigs. A good sandblast followed by metal ready and then paint is still good 10 years after the fact (and the part in question has sat in the arizona sun). Jody
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