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| electrical | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 08-02-2021 09:11 pm |
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1st Post |
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74beans Member
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Finally got 14932 running after it sat in my neighbor's yard for 20 years. Became something of a Stromberg RandR expert after removing and replacing the carbs about 15 times for various reasons(tip replace the rear one first for easy access to the choke cable). I now have 4 gauges not working- Temp, Amp, Tach, and Fuel. I have ground and think I have narrowed it down to the Voltage Stabilizer. Can anyone give me a tip on how to find it? I printed out the wiring diagram from Jensen Museum in poster size so I can follow the loom to were I think it should be but cannot see it from the very uncomfortable "Lotus Position". It seems like the heater hose may be hiding it. Am I right in thinking that I should be able to test it by checking output voltage at 10 volts?
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| Posted: 08-03-2021 01:23 am |
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2nd Post |
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redracer Member
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The voltage stabilizer controls ONLY the temp and fuel gauges. It is located between these 2 gauges on the back panel, and the ground for it is a #2 cross-point screw into the metal panel--this minimal connection gets corroded and non-electrical after many years. MOSS sells a solid state one that will be more accurate than the bi-metal one inside the original. As for the other 2 gauges, you are either NOT grounded or the +/positive voltage is not getting there. Use a VOM to find the fault. good luck, bruce
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| Posted: 08-03-2021 04:42 am |
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3rd Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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The modern electronic voltage stabilizer does eliminate some of the original mechanical stabilizer's reliability issues. On the surface, that sounds good. However, the electric gauges (fuel level, coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure) all have an inherant non-linearity in them. But the mechanical voltage stabilizer also has a non-linearity, and it works in the opposite direction. So together, the stabilizer and gauge put out a pretty accurate reading. Convert to the solid-state, electronic voltage stabilizer without any compensating non-linearity, and the gauge's accuracy isn't as good. If you didn't know that, any error probably would have gone un-noticed, but now that you know, it will bug the crap out of you. You're welcome. ;-) Regards, Tim Engel Last edited on 08-03-2021 04:45 am by Esprit2 |
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| Posted: 08-03-2021 05:30 pm |
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4th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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In my case the bad original voltage stabilizer did not make the two gauges not work - they were just off. Temperature read way high. Another note - I bench tested the original to verify it was bad by using a 12 volt DC power supply. Output was all over the place. I'm not sure what the output is supposed to look like on the mechanical type, but I suspected it was not working correctly. I had already run a separate ground wire to it. I purchased a new electronic stabilizer from Delta and it didn't work. Input 12V and output 12V. That stumped me for awhile since I assumed I was testing it wrong. Sent back to Delta for a different one with same result. Now I was sure I was doing something wrong! A couple of months later I was ordering something else from Moss and decided "what the hell" and ordered another stabilizer (my new rheostat was also defective. I have terrible luck that way). Bench test was 12V in, 10V out, and now my JH isn't overheating!
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