| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
||||||||||||||
| Hazard Rocker Switch | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 04-21-2011 08:26 pm |
|
1st Post |
|
yellowjh Member
|
I just purchased a new (they are now being remanufactured) hazard rocker switch for my 75 JH. Contact David Booth.......... member@djbooth.freeserve.co.uk the switch presently cost 41.34 GBP......the conversion is $70.24. easy to pay through PayPal. they do the conversion .
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 04-22-2011 02:20 pm |
|
2nd Post |
|
Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
|
$70 bucks for a $3 switch man thats crazy, I sure hope with parts going for this kind of dow it drives up the value of the cars. As a side note I have taken a number of these switch's apart and they are extremly easy to fix, most of the problems end up tp be dirty contacts inside that a little sand paper can clean up, plus if they tend to come apart alittle glue will hold them together, the only thing that usaully kills them is if the pivot point for the rocker is broken, there are small springs inside so if you take them apart do it slowy and you should be safe. And please I dont mean to offend It's just my sense of frugalness coming thru. Brett
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 04-22-2011 03:01 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
yellowjh Member
|
Brett, I apprecite where you are coming from with reference to the price. It is hard to take apart and clean if it's not there (missing)!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 10-07-2021 08:39 pm |
|
4th Post |
|
DonBurns Member
|
Using an old post to ask a couple of related questions on the hazard rocker switch. Went to the JHPS meeting a couple of weeks ago, and everything was working on the way there, but all turn signals stopped working on the way back. After several hours squinting at the wiring diagram and tracing, I believe the issue is the hazard rocker switch. I saw the suggestion to take apart and clean, but missed the little set screw that holds the rocker on. It was crudded over. Ended up breaking the 50 year old plastic trying to take it apart. I have a new one on the way, and will also replace the two flashers just to cover all possibilities. I have power the the switch, verified the stalk switch is working, and have traced all the other wires all the way to the flashing bulbs. Questions- The hazard and turn signal flashers are different part numbers. Are they really different? Are they wired directionally? There is a + and - on them. Wiring diagram does not indicate which wire goes on + and - terminal. Has anyone thought to update these flasher units with modern solid state flashers? Any suggested part numbers/sources? The wiring diagram for the rocker switch shows no wire connected to pin 3. But my wiring harness has a white wire there. I have not been able to trace. Any idea what that's about? I suspect that when I install the new switch, everything will just go back to working, but I like to understand what's going on. Thanks for any input. BTW - switch now almost $100.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 10-08-2021 03:38 am |
|
5th Post |
|
Art DeKneef Member
|
When I had trouble getting the flashers working properly I replaced my flasher units back in February with units from Delta. According to Jim they are different between the two units. If I remember correctly, without looking to see if I still have those notes. the replacement I got for the turn signals was a modern electronic one. The hazard flasher unit was the plain old flasher type unit. I don't know if they are directional as I just hooked them up and everything worked. Maybe I got lucky. I think my hazard switch has 5 wires connected to it. But I would have to look to be sure.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 10-08-2021 06:57 pm |
|
6th Post |
|
DonBurns Member
|
I got the new hazard switch and the two flasher units. The difference between the two seems to be wattage (50W for the turn signal and 94W for hazard) which relates to different resistance which would cause a different flash rate. Once I had them out, I could see the markings are not + and - , but L and B. Load and Blink? Everything works now, but they don't make it easy. The wire colors actually on the harness don't match the wiring diagram, (new harness from British Wiring) so I traced each to the pins that needed to be connected at the hazard switch and 9 pin connector (and Brown/Black to power). Didn't work. I switched the LGK and LGB wires to the hazard switch and it worked. One of my available wires is Red/Orange which is nowhere on either of my wiring diagrams. Makes tracking down electrical glitches even harder.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 10-08-2021 07:41 pm |
|
7th Post |
|
Art DeKneef Member
|
Good news that everything is working again. I agree that tracing wires is a pain. Especially when the colors don't match. Luckily the harness is this JH is the original so most of the colors match. A long time ago I had the computer files for the JH and GT wiring diagrams. Since a couple of my clients are architects I took the files to them and had 2 foot by 3 foot copies made. Much easier tracing wires and allowed me to use color markers to help highlight some of the wires.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 10-09-2021 06:49 pm |
|
8th Post |
|
redracer Member
|
Don: interesting that your old HAZARD switch had a set screw. It was very likely one I had fixed a long time ago, as the plastic fulcrum pins would always break. Yes, you are correct in that the turn signals "run" through the HAZARD switch(the lower/bottom contacts). What was almost ALWAYS the problem is that the copper contacts are NOT self-cleaning , like the FAN & LIGH switches which "rub" against one another, similar to the old light switches in your house. Therefore, you are correct in taking the switch apart for cleaning the copper contacts(stiff fiberglass brushes are excellent for this). I still "repair" these switches if one has all the parts, even broken fulcrum tabs. Actually, the switch is BETTER than an original as it can be taken apart easier for cleaning.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 10-10-2021 09:36 pm |
|
9th Post |
|
DonBurns Member
|
That explains one thing. The rocker switch that had been repaired was upside down. In order for the switch to be "on" when pushed up, Hazard was upside down. I was wondering how that could be. Does that mean you have had some direct experience with 15800? There was A LOT wrong with this car. I would be curious about any history. I purchased from Albuquerque.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 10-10-2021 11:06 pm |
|
10th Post |
|
redracer Member
|
Ha, Ha! No, I certainly would not have repaired it "upside down"! Either someone else came up with the same idea or they took it apart and didn't put it back correctly. The only way I would know if I had originally repaired it, is for the name of the previous owner/s, so I could look it up(I keep files forever). keep us posted, bruce
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Current time is 05:51 am | |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Electrical & Instruments > Hazard Rocker Switch | Top |
