| ||||
Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
3 way firewall fuse block | Rate Topic |
Author | Post |
---|
Posted: 03-31-2010 02:25 pm |
|
1st Post |
k2enemy84 Member
|
What gives with the 3 way fuse on the fire wall? I have repeatedly had no power to the middle fuse (the one sending power to the fuel pump), but have power to the top and bottom. I was rather desperate yesterday to start the engine since it has sat for about 3 months with fuel in the lines. I simply jumped the fuel pump off the battery via long gator clips and she started right up. When I disconnected the power and turned the ignition off the engine died as usual. For whatever reason I put a test light on the fuse block and now all 3 fuses are lighting up consistently...what gives? I've c hecked for faulty, broken, or loose wires, but nothing stands out.
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 03-31-2010 03:33 pm |
|
2nd Post |
subwoofer Member
|
Corrosion on the fuse clamps. Give them a good clean and don't go insane with the dielectric grease. It is exactly that - dielectric, meaning an insulator! The fuse box is a brain dead design, since only one half of the clamp each side is actually connected to anything. Tightening the clamp blades is not likely to hurt either. -- Joachim
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 03-31-2010 04:37 pm |
|
3rd Post |
k2enemy84 Member
|
I cleaned the connections before..well several times actually, I'll try the dielectric grease route next. It's just odd that it didn't work until I ran power back to the pump and now it works. One hangup is I dont want to force the fuse block any further from the firewall for fear of breaking something...but youre saying you can tighten the clamps on the reverse side of the block?
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 03-31-2010 06:01 pm |
|
4th Post |
subwoofer Member
|
No, take the fuses out and bend the fuse clamps closer to increase the clamping force. If the contact surfaces look dull, go over with some very fine abrasive, the old blue eraser from school (for rubbing out ink) works nicely. I had the same problem, but it took some time to discover, since a wire had been placed between the two switched circuits in the engine bay. What I found was that the tach worked intermittently. All this can be done from the engine compartment side, no need to take the fuse box out. -- Joachim
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 03-31-2010 06:17 pm |
|
5th Post |
k2enemy84 Member
|
thanks, I'll give it a shot
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 04-02-2010 02:52 pm |
|
6th Post |
Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
|
Chances are when you fed power directly to the pump the bad connection in the system arked and made a complete circiut. So now it works, but it's still there and really cant be depended on, if it was me I would spend a few hours cleaning up all the connections under the bonnet, plus the grounds. Brett
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 04-05-2010 01:46 am |
|
7th Post |
k2enemy84 Member
|
ok, I brought my dremel to work along with the wire brush head. I cleaned the connections and used dielectric grease and now it starts right away and run better now that there isnt a shotty connection of power to the fuel. Thanks for the help gents.
|
||||||||||||||
|
Current time is 06:14 am | |
> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Electrical & Instruments > 3 way firewall fuse block | Top |