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| How to remove brake drums? | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 07-20-2020 02:17 am |
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1st Post |
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jensendriver123 Member
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Can someone tell me how to remove the rear break drums? The manual indicates that I should see bolts holding the drum to the hub. But, after removing the wheels, I see nothing but the lug nut studs. No bolts.
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| Posted: 07-20-2020 05:32 am |
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2nd Post |
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Tom Bradley Member
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Once the wheels are off, you should be able to just pull the drum off. There is a hole in each drum that allows you to bolt the drum to the hub, but it is not necessary and I don't think it was ever used, except possibly in the earliest models.
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| Posted: 07-20-2020 04:42 pm |
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3rd Post |
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jensendriver123 Member
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Oh how funny! I never would have thought to just try pulling. Thanks so much. Now I can proceed with fixing the brakes :)
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| Posted: 07-21-2020 01:29 pm |
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4th Post |
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chrisl Member 
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Don't forget to wind the adjuster as far in as you can. You might also need to give the drums a tap with a rubber mallet or a hammer to get the brake shoes to release; I also had a shallow groove in mine where the shoes met the drum which made it a bit of a challenge to get the drums off.
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| Posted: 07-21-2020 02:43 pm |
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5th Post |
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redracer Member
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If it's a '73/Girling cylinder, then "wind" the screw in on the back' If it's the later/more common Lucas one, then remove the "rectangular" rubber plug on the backing plate; using 2 screwdrivers. lift the upper spring-loaded tooth piece up and at the same time move the lower toothed outward to relieve the pressure
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| Posted: 07-21-2020 03:30 pm |
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6th Post |
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jensendriver123 Member
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Yes, the hubs are Lockheed. I was able to figure out the adjuster thingy and get the hubs off. Thanks. Is my original brake cylinder (on the right) upside down (vis-a-vis the bleeder nipple? Or does the cylinder work bi-directionally (doesn't matter which port the bleeder is in)? Attachment: IMG_1925.jpg (Downloaded 39 times) Last edited on 07-21-2020 03:31 pm by jensendriver123 |
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| Posted: 07-21-2020 03:43 pm |
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7th Post |
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redracer Member
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Yes.. they're reversed. Guess Nigel downed a few too many pints at the pub
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| Posted: 07-21-2020 04:50 pm |
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8th Post |
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jensendriver123 Member
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Sorry, so, I should keep the new one as is or reverse it to match the old one?
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| Posted: 07-21-2020 08:03 pm |
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9th Post |
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redracer Member
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keep them as they were; not much that would be easy to fix
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| Posted: 07-21-2020 09:27 pm |
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10th Post |
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jensendriver123 Member
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lol! Sorry, you mean use the new ones as they are. Yes? i.e. don't change them to match the old ones.
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| Posted: 07-21-2020 09:40 pm |
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11th Post |
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redracer Member
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Put the new ones in the exact same way the old ones were. You're going to have a VERY difficult time getting the new spring circlip on the back of the cylinder; and it goes on the "more difficult way. Try making a wooden jig to hold the cylinder in place while you curse attempting to get the new circlip over the cylinder nub(spreading snap ring pliers will help, but not the cheap junk from Harbor Freight and the other low cost vendors)
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| Posted: 07-21-2020 09:43 pm |
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12th Post |
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jensendriver123 Member
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Darn, what I'm trying to get clear is: "is the bleeder nipple in the correct hole in the new cylinder or should I put it in the other hole like the old cylinder.
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| Posted: 07-21-2020 09:54 pm |
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13th Post |
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redracer Member
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The bleeder valve(located on the right rear ONLY) will be in the STTRAIGHT threads and on top. The "ANGLED" threads are for the lines feeding the fluid to each wheel cylinder. Hopefully, you took some pix before disassembly.
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| Posted: 07-21-2020 09:56 pm |
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14th Post |
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jensendriver123 Member
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Ok. Yes, that is the way the old cylinder is configured. So, I just need to switch the bleeder from the bottom/angled threads to the top/straight threads on my new cylinder. Ok. Great! Thanks so much. Richard
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