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Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page: 1 2 |
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Misfire after 30 minutes | Rating: |
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Posted: 05-11-2016 02:53 pm |
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21st Post |
UKJames Member
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You mentioned the coil is too hot to hold for any period of time, either there is increased resistance in the circuit (plugs/gaps, dizzy cap gaps, lead starting to beakdown) or the coil resistance has gone to pot. I've got a lucas gold and it gets a slightly warm, max. Have you tried swapping the coil out? Last edited on 05-11-2016 02:54 pm by UKJames |
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Posted: 05-11-2016 03:00 pm |
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22nd Post |
subwoofer Member
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60 degrees after 45 minutes shouldn't be an issue, the inlet manifold was much hotter.
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Posted: 05-21-2016 10:57 am |
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23rd Post |
subwoofer Member
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Back from an hour mixed-traffic testing, not a misfire in sight after replacing rotor and dizzy cap with fresh (and rivet-less) items. Grand sum total for fix: 16£ HAPPY! -- Joachim
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Posted: 05-21-2016 11:19 am |
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24th Post |
UKJames Member
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The cheap fixes are always the most satisfying! Glad you got it sorted.
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Posted: 06-05-2016 11:39 am |
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25th Post |
subwoofer Member
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Still working and rapidly building confidence, not scared of city traffic anymore. The more I think about it, the more likely is it that the problem was building ever since I installed the engine. Really happy that it looks like it's fixed. Has anyone rebuilt a Smiths voltage gauge, btw? Mine is reading all over the place. -- Joachim
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Posted: 06-05-2016 10:35 pm |
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26th Post |
gmgiltd Member
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No idea about reconditioning the gauge or even where you would source parts if they were needed. New ones are availability from Merlin in the UK if you are stuck. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/smiths-classic-voltmeter-gauge-52mm-diameter-cb-v Gordon
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Posted: 06-06-2016 09:47 am |
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27th Post |
UKJames Member
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I've not delved into the inner workings of a volt gauge but have managed to bring back to life the tach and fuel sender, it is probably a fairly simple mechanism, a good clean and reassembly may well do the trick?
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Posted: 06-06-2016 08:37 pm |
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28th Post |
Tom Bradley Member
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Before replacing or rebuilding the voltage gauge, you might want to check the ground connections on the back of the instrument panel. Loose connections turned out to be the problem back when I had jumpy gauges. The way the ground was connected on mine was pretty sloppy and unreliable.
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Posted: 06-06-2016 08:44 pm |
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29th Post |
subwoofer Member
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Doesn't sound unlikely, actually. It seems to read right right after starting up, reading 1-1.5V low after a while. Edit: missing half a sentence -- Joachim Last edited on 06-06-2016 09:17 pm by subwoofer |
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Posted: 06-06-2016 08:57 pm |
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30th Post |
answerman Member
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I don't think there is much that even can be rebuilt on the gauge. For what it's worth, I do have one I pulled out of my bits car. I can test it to see how it reads and if it passes, I'm sure we can work something out.
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Posted: 06-06-2016 09:20 pm |
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31st Post |
subwoofer Member
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Not really a priority, knowing it reads wrong after a while is ok, may look into it after rewiring the car, or it may have to give up the space for an oil temp gauge instead. Much more useful info really.
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Posted: 06-12-2019 04:43 pm |
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32nd Post |
subwoofer Member
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Finally got to the bottom of the misfire problem, it did reoccur but only after quite some time driving. It would idle just fine, then suddenly give up the ghost and die, just as if it was a fueling issue. The solution was simple, again cheap, again ignition related. I won't get into details, but I suddenly saw my timing light go dark when it stumbled. Turns out the Pertronix Ignitor-II has an undervoltage lockout feature, so the ignition module was actually shutting down at idle as the module warmed up. Connected as per instructions (red wire to + on coil) the voltage drop through the ignition switch, tach, crummy old wiring, compounded by the hotter coil was enough that it would just go into shutdown when the rpms were low enough that the alternator wasn't really charging. One misfire or stumble could be all it took. I really think I solved it this time.
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