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gradea Member
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I am having a problem of fuel getting into the oil sump, and overfilling it, and cannot figure out if it is carb (Strom.90s) or timing related, or possibly ring problems. I did rebuild the Stroms with the proper kits and needles. I did not do the engine assembly but previous owner completed it before I purchased the car. He handed me the carbs in a box, and I assembled them back on the engine. Would appreciate your tech forum comments. Thanks, Hank |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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The Jensen Healey would normally use the Stromberg CD175s. I would assume the needle and valve arrangement at the carb float bowl are not sealing and gasoline is simply sweeping past it, at least I would check that first. It's not uncommon for brand new seats to leak. |
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gradea Member
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Greg-thanks for your input. I remember replacing the needle and seat which was in the rebuild kit. For example on the Austin Healey, using SUs, the needle is nylon or delran on a bakealite body and fits into a brass seat. They work fine unless the float gets hung up on its spindle. The float setting is 7/16" across the flat to regulate this flow. What do you think I need to do on the Strombergs to set the float to shut off the needle and seat properly? The car will just not run and it chokes up and stalls out so I can't just wait for the needle to seat while driving. Do you think the timing belt or piston rings are not issues in this case? Hank |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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As Greg said your dumping gas right thru your carbs, float bowl level on a Strom 175 CD is 11/16" 17mm. with the gasket removed. If your level is to high noway can the shutoff stop the fuel it will just find another path thru. And change your oil. Brett |
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gradea Member
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Brett-thanks for the info I will check the setting to see what it is. A group of us were discussing it over coffee this AM and one of the guys mentioned the emmision system as a possible culprit. That is another "path" for fuel to get into the engine. What do you think about that idea- if the carb setting checks out? I have been trying to figure out this problem for months/years so I have not been able to drive the car but it sure is good to get feedback from you and Greg for possible solutions. And YES, I will drain the sump as soon as it stops "making oil". Regards, Hank |
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James Sohl Member
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I have one of these Haynes manuals and highly recommend it. Available from Amazon $60.00 or so for a used copy. Not exactly cheap, but well worth it IMHO.  Attachment: zs ad pix from amazon.jpg (Downloaded 204 times) |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Most decent Stromberg rebuild kits include a schematic and settings, if you dont have one I can e-mail you direct a copy. First off Stromb's are good and simple carb's, there are better and worse out there but done right they will give you many happy miles of dependable driving. So first off check that float level, usually the #1 problem for flooding, second check the choke, is it seated when the cable is not pulled, if it is pull the choke off and check the carb body and disc surface, are they clean and not scored. Next plug off all the crap stuff you dont need, by pass valve, temp. compensating valve, just cut a full face gasket to close these off. You really dont need them and the trouble they can cause to me out wieghs there usefullness. Using the proper needle adjusting tool, turn the needle till it is seated and back out 1-1/4 turns, that is the initial setting to get things going, adjust from there. Go to the Buckeye Triumph site they have a great article on how to Stromb's in there tech area. But seriously it's either level, float valve or choke, as long as the carbs are in decent shape, if they are really crappy and the bodies are pitted, just buy a new set from the club store. Brett |
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gradea Member
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Thanks for your input-I do have that manual and use it regliously for the rebuild work. I am really familar with the SUs, as found on my Austin Healeys, and have done many rebuilds of those little buggars, but the Stromberg is a bit different than the SU even though it resembles it in looks....I will have to take them apart, as suggested, and go through the procedure again. Hank |
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gradea Member
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Brett-sure wish I could have you looking over my shoulder when I take these apart, again. You have a lot of knowledge on this carb. I will carefully disassemble and re do the work and hopefully solve the problem. Thanks again for your input. Do you know the Burretts or Connollys in Hilton? They are relatives of mine and I used to date a girl named Smith who lived on Mariah!? Hank |
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Dakota123 Member
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Coincidentally I discovered I had the same problem as you when I took 10628 out for the first time this season. I had what I figure was about three quarts of fuel in the sump. It was the rear carb needle and seat. It wasn't that old but for whatever reason failed. You can pinpoint which carb is leaking by jacking up the right front so that the leaking fuel flows out the carb instead of into the sump. Mike |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Hank, been away to TN on a parts run, But yes I know a Burrit, Zeb & Kathy, how have you made out with the carbs, have you found your issue. Brett |
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gradea Member
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Bret-here we are again...5 months later. Got the car running...but it still flooded. Timing is 8 degrees. I put a fuel regulator in the boot after the pump, before the filter. Set it at 3. But guess what? I have discovered the wrong spark plugs were sold to me 8 years ago. The guy did not have Champions so he gave me Autolite 63s...they are comp to Champion N9Y (they should have been Autolte 52 for the non smog engine). I just found some of the correct Champion N7Y plugs and will replace them as well as add a newly purchased Petronix to the distributor and coil. Will let you know what happened from there on...good thing this is not my daily driver. Hank |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
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I use Autolite 64's Kurt '73 JH 13148 |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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I'm a NGK man myself |
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gradea Member
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OK guys, here is the final word on the carb flooding and sump dilution...it was a seized cold start valve disc...I never noticed that it was not "working" when I rebuilt the units. Finally, in desperation, sent it to Sports Car Shop in Eugene, Or. and they spent a week with it, without finding the porblem...then, lastly, they removed the choke body and found it seized. It will be a very costly oversight, but evidently I'm not the only one who had this happen. Remember to check this unit when rebuilding making sure that the disc and spring are free to move and the holes are clean as the choke lever will move, even though the disc is frozen, giving the appearance of a working choke. This unit serves BOTH carbs (unlike on MGBs) so a whole lot of fuel will enter the inlet thus making lots more oil in the sump! I am now driving this car after 13 years of ownership, having never turned a mile on it. Regards, Hank |
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