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| Dellorto Rebuild | Rating: 
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| Posted: 03-27-2008 03:27 am |
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1st Post |
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jensen4u Member
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I am going to try my hand at rebuilding my 45mm Dellortos and am sure to need some help from you experienced guys. The first question I have is around ultrasonic cleaning. Specifically what cleaner/solvent should I use at what duration. I am aware of the carb cleaner in a bucket, but am thinking a flammable solvent in a ultrasonic bath is probably not a good idea.
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| Posted: 04-09-2008 01:41 am |
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2nd Post |
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jensen4u Member
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Alright guys. I went ahead an cleaned them in the bucket-o-carb cleaner and not the ultrasonic route. I have assembled one and noticed there are a total of 10 o-rings by my count 0n the carb in the following locations. 2 - Bypass screws 2 - Progression tap screw (mixture) 2 - Pump jet 1 - Pump check valve 1 - Balance lever 2 - Idle jet The parts diagrams show three different sizes. Above indicates smallest to largest. The rebuild kits seem to only come with eight o-rings. Which eight are these to replace. These size is not always obvious and I have yet to find the sizes for the given part numbers. It is also unfortunate that the old ones in my carbs are so distorted that it makes it very hard to know. Is there anyone here who can shed some light on this for me? I also had to have one of the Progression tap screws removed due to a stripped head. It would also seem that the thread got a little damage. I have been able to find the size of tap I need to chase these threads with, but not a domestic location to aquire one. If anyone knows of a shop that could do this for me or a place to get a tap from please let me know. The size is M7 x 0.5 mm pitch. Thanks, Brad Picture of the rebuild: http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk11/jensen4u/?action=view¤t=100_0012_edited-1.jpg Last edited on 04-09-2008 01:03 pm by jensen4u |
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| Posted: 04-11-2008 06:16 am |
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3rd Post |
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Jay Dee Member
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I went through this routine a few years ago, and I wound up having the threads chased by a reputable machine shop locally. I had them drill out and remove one of the air bypass screws, and re-establish the threads. You should be able to find someone locally that can do that for you. As to the 0-rings, I think there are 2 for the bypass screws, 2 for the pump vlaves, 2 for idle needle screws, 1 for the check valve, and 2 for the idle jets. That's only 9. I have a 45 mm apart on the bench, and I don't seem to find the one for the check valve. But I think that the Des Hammill illustration shows only those nine. I'm not sure what you refer to as the balance lever. Nice job cleaning the carb bodies up. I never seem to get mine that clean. J Dymond
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| Posted: 04-11-2008 08:41 am |
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4th Post |
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Stevewarbs Member
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When I bought a service kit for mine there were loads of O-rings with no way of knowing what they were for so I emailed Matt at Eurocarb and I have posted his reponse below. HTH 6 x internal dia approx 5mm 4 for idle jet holders, 2 for pump non return valves 2 x internal dia approx 4mm think you should have 4 of these for your mixture screws - I will send another two today, sorry! 4 x internal dia approx 3mm pump jets 4 x intern dia approx 2mm you won't use these - they are for a later carb.
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| Posted: 04-18-2008 01:54 pm |
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5th Post |
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jensen4u Member
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Thanks for the responses guys. I was able to take the carb to a quality machine shop and have the threads straightened. They had to order a tap, but it did the trick. They even gave me the tap for a charge of only $20. Man was I happy! As for the replacement screw and o-rings I just ordered them yesterday from dellorto.co.uk and my velocity stacks from cbperformance.com. Hope to tackle the second carb this weekend and have the parts sometime next week so I can try to install them the following weekend. I will say through this experience a suggestion to the makers of the rebuild kits would be to identify the locations for the given size of o-ring. This is not so clear. I will let you guys know how the remainder of this mini-project goes.
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| Posted: 05-04-2008 07:05 pm |
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6th Post |
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jensen4u Member
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Alright, guys I got it all put back together and started the engine up yesterday. Reset the timing and tried to tune the carbs. I have a few things to still work out as I am gettting some popping when I start to increase the throttle. Any suggestions on this are welcome. I also m trying to replace the throttle cable as mine is fairly worn out. Does anyone know how to do this. I am a big guy and can not reach the cable from inside the car and have tried from outside. If there is a trick to this or something I am missing please help. I would have never imagined a three foot cable would be some stinkin hard to replace.
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| Posted: 05-05-2008 05:15 am |
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7th Post |
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Joel Member
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My car has a hole drilled in the top of the firewall right next to the throttle cable for easy access. Apparently someone else had the same problem. It sure makes things easy. I can't imagine how the hell you would get to it without such a sexy access point. If you decide to go the same route as the PO(s) of my car let me know and I'll take some pics for you.
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| Posted: 05-06-2008 01:23 pm |
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8th Post |
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jensen4u Member
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I would prefer not to have to alter the structure of the car to achieve this replacement. Anyone else have any suggestions?
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| Posted: 05-06-2008 02:22 pm |
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9th Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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you have to have someone crawl under the dash, no way around it, take it to a garage or hire a hooker, course I'd love to see the look on here face when you tell her what you want ........... :) ( thats a joke OK ) ( pun intended ). Brett.
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| Posted: 05-06-2008 04:45 pm |
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10th Post |
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Joel Member
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have fun. there's a little 'E clip' on the end of the pin that should be all kinds of fun to put back on while you're upside down trying to reeeeeaaaach up under the dash....
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| Posted: 05-06-2008 10:36 pm |
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11th Post |
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jensen4u Member
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Guys the funnest part about this is my arms will not fold up enough to get under there with my head. I am 6'6" tall and with limbs like these this is impossible. I am going to have to find someone really small or find a better way to reach it from outside the car. If I remove the plate the cable goes through on the firewall I can see the yoke the cable attaches to, but I can not reach it. Maybe with some really long needle nose pliers?? Any other suggestions are welcome.
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| Posted: 05-07-2008 01:21 am |
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12th Post |
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jensen4u Member
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I looked at this tonight again and needle nose are just not going to cut it. I am thinking of losening the pedal box to get to it. Someone let me know if this sounds like a terrible idea. Of course I will have to diconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder and disconnect the clutch cable clamps.
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| Posted: 05-07-2008 10:19 pm |
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13th Post |
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Jim Ketcham Member
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I replaced mine by removing the pedal housing bolts and sliding the housing out into the engine bay a few inches. Once out the circlip is accessable.
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| Posted: 05-27-2008 01:06 am |
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14th Post |
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Steve Jarvis Member
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I suspect it's like replacing the clutch cable. The only solution I came to was to remove the bolts from the housing and pull it out several inches. You also need to unbolt the the brake balancing unit from the wheel wheel. This saves removing the brake lines from the master cylinder and bleeding the lines.
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