| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
||||||||||||||
| Oil blow by | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 07-29-2007 03:19 am |
|
1st Post |
|
jensen4u Member
|
I started up my JH after 5 years tonight. I had stored it with mavel in the cylindertops to preserve the rings. However, tonight when I cranked it up I lost about half a quart of oil out the tailpipe. It lessened as it ran for 10-15 minutes but nonetheless worries me. Worth mentioning is that I put SAE 30w in with some mavel added. The thinking was the thinner oil and the mavel would lube those sitting parts a little easier. I will change to the 20-50 once I have the bugs worked out and am ready to take it out for a drive. Can anyone provide me some insight as to what is causeing this. I thought it could be that the rings just need to reseat, but not sure.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-29-2007 12:29 pm |
|
2nd Post |
|
Judson Manning Member 
|
The short answer is: only time will tell. The smart thing to do was put oil in the cylinders to minimize the rings siezing to the pistons and/or liners. Don't second-guess yourself regarding which visocity you should have used. 5 years is a long time and despite your best efforts, there is going to be some form of corrosion. My first suggestion would be to flush the engine by running a lighter weight oil (I use 5W20) through the system at idle and draining repeatedly. Clean out all that old stuff and give the rings a chance to re-seat. Refill with 20W50 when you think it's safe. Besides blow-by, I'm sure you are getting a substantial amount of oil being sucked through the intake valves. Again, 5 years of sitting in one position may have led to the valves and/or guides getting slightly out of kilter. Congrats on bringing her back to life. Unless a ring has cracked, I think you have a pretty good chance of getting her back on the road. Just remember to do all of the typical 'tune-up' items, and I think you'll be fine.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-30-2007 01:30 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
jensen4u Member
|
What would you think of using a engine flush additive on one of the last changes of oil prior to the use of 20-50?
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 01-06-2008 05:35 am |
|
4th Post |
|
demonicus Member
|
The only engine flush additive that any mechanical device needs is SEAFOAM... http://www.seafoamsales.com I swear by this stuff... anything else is simply an additive with harsh chemicals designed to eat your money and your motors. Here in vancouver the only generic parts store that carries it is NAPA. The directions with one bottle is to put half in your crankcase, 25% in the pvc valve hole or intake(s) with the motor running and then shut off the motor. let it sit for 5 - 10mins and then fire it up again. The last 25% goes into your gas tank at a 1/4 full. Run the vehicle for 100kms -250kms and then give it an oil change. Decide how long it has been since the last change to figure out if you should drive the 100 or 250kms. example is if I haven't done an oil change in along time I would only drive 100kms and then change the oil. If your religious like me about every 3 - 5000kms then you can let the seafoam sit in the crankcase for 250kms. No more tho. you can see videos of seafoam users on youtube and streetfire.net
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11-30-2008 07:57 pm |
|
5th Post |
|
subwoofer Member
|
Judson Manning wrote:My first suggestion would be to flush the engine by running a lighter weight oil (I use 5W20) through the system at idle and draining repeatedly. Clean out all that old stuff and give the rings a chance to re-seat. Refill with 20W50 when you think it's safe. Bumping an old thread here, Judson: The process of diluting the old oil by repeatedly draining seems inefficient. There should be around 7 liters of oil in the system, and a little more than 4 comes out at each draining. Thus it will take 3 drainings to get 90% of the old oil out, likewise, it will take 3 applications of 50 weight oil before you reach 90% of it in the system. This gets expensive rather quickly... The shop manual does not mention the oil cooler at all, at least in the engine chapter, so what is the proper procedure for disconnection, reconnection and draining? That would speed up the process immensely, and also make sure no water, coolant or other pollutant has hidden itself in there, just to poke fun at me later. Also, where do you stand on the subject of engine cleaning oil additives? If they are considered harmless, I will try one application just in case it will help reduce the blow by. If the mayo in the oil was just a coincidence, it buys me a bit of time. -- Joachim Last edited on 11-30-2008 07:58 pm by subwoofer |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 12-01-2008 12:47 am |
|
6th Post |
|
Judson Manning Member
|
LOL - I never said it was efficient or inexpensive! It is however easy and quite effective.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Current time is 07:08 pm | |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > Oil blow by | Top |
