| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
||||||||||||||
| Engine installation/removal | Rating: 
|
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 04-02-2005 08:49 pm |
|
1st Post |
|
Gary Martin JH 15371 Member
|
I see from the newsletter article that the recommended way to install/remove the engine is with the transmission attached. And then to connect the exhaust header once engine is nearly in place with cam towers removed. When I removed my engine, I separated it from the trans and left the header attached. I was planning to install it the same way. It seems like there may be some benefits to this method: header can be installed before engine is installed, and you will not need to tip the engine at such a steep angle. Disadvantage might be that it will be a little difficult to mate the engine and trans. Does anyone have experience installing the engine this way? Gary
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 04-04-2005 12:56 am |
|
2nd Post |
|
Ricardo Member 
|
Mating the engine to the transmission after the engine is installed is very easy if: 1- the clutch is properly aligned 2- you tilt the engine backward very slightly and 3- YOU HAVE HELP. I believe the problem is the steering shaft position and the interfirance when droping the engine with the header installed. I've changed my clutch so I've done the transmission / engine detail once in the JH and a bunch of times in other cars and trucks and found no problems. Having said that, if you, very carefully drop in the engine with the transmission attached, all you have to do UNDER THE CAR is attach the clutch cable, speedo cable, transmission mount, shifter and drive shaft. ......up to you. Ricardo
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-13-2005 11:56 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
Jeff Kouski Member
|
The easiest JH engine change that I have done was by removing the engine, transmission, and front suspension out from under the car as one unit. It is easy to raise the body and tie it up once things are all disconnected.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-14-2005 04:04 pm |
|
4th Post |
|
Ron Earp Member 
|
Like this: And  But, I have since pulled them from the top and find that easier, especially if you are not planning on subframe work. It goes in and out from the top quite nicely. Ron
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-14-2005 09:06 pm |
|
5th Post |
|
Mitch Ware Member 
|
Did mine from the bottom too. It was a snap. and  Mitch Ware 1974 JH-5 #111119670 1971 TR-6 #CC66950LO
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-20-2005 02:32 pm |
|
6th Post |
|
StabnSteer Member 
|
Engine and trans mating is one of those things - if the planets are properly aligned, so too will the engine and transmission. Its just that nobody has ever really figured out the proper astrology of the thing to replicate it! I put an engine in my JH with the transmission still in the vehicle and did it myself - went in like it had been buttered beforehand. However, I'm certain that this is the exception to the rule as I've done many an engine in many other vehicles in this manner and spent a decent amount of time cursing and bashing my knuckles. So my main suggestion if you'd like to do it with the tranny still in the car is to simply be patient. It can certainly be done and help from others is typically a good thing - but don't expect it to be a walk in the park. When things aren't working and things don't appear to want to align, pull the engine up, rotate the tranny input shaft, and start again. Eventually, it will all come together. --Erik Spring, TX
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-21-2005 12:32 am |
|
7th Post |
|
Ron Earp Member
|
One thing that helps a lot is to make a good clutch alignment tool using two sockets that fit together and perfectly match the input bearing and clutch. Or, use the cut off input shaft of a bad transmission. Once you are doing it you just need to be patient and it really helps to have one person assigned to turning a rear wheel with the transmision in reverse (gives the best multiplication of puny arm muscles!) thus moving the input shaft while you are pushing on the engine to mate them up. She'll lock up and you'll be done. Ron
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-28-2005 07:57 pm |
|
8th Post |
|
mdutch Member 
|
Mitch Ware wrote:Did mine from the bottom too. It was a snap. I'm starting a full front-end rebuild with bead-blast and powdercoat on the entire assembly replace its rusty "Long Beach Finish". As part of that project I'd like to get the crossmember out too. Mark Rosenbaum suggested I support engine with some jacks or blocks. Looking at the photos and "body lift" variation makes me think that's the way to go. Seems like if I raised and blocked the body I might be able to block the engine too, then release the motormounts and crossmember attachment. Any thoughts?
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Current time is 07:21 am | |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > Engine installation/removal | Top |
