| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
||||||||||||||
| Frozen haed stud | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 08-29-2005 07:35 pm |
|
1st Post |
|
drtrite Member
|
Any tips on removing a frozen head stud? Stud is corrdeded between the head and stud. Thanks Don
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 08-30-2005 01:55 pm |
|
2nd Post |
|
Judson Manning Member 
|
Don, A frozen stud is never fun to deal with... First question: Assuming the head is off the block, do you really need to remove all the studs? The only real reason to remove the studs would be to deck the block. With the later style (thick) head gasket I've only had one block that needed to be decked. Run a straight-edge across the deck and liners to check the nip. If the nip is .002"- .005" you're fine. There's also no reason to remove the liners. The iron liners corrode themselves to the aluminum block and create a fantastic seal (actually better than the later Nikasil liners). Virtually every machinist can hone the liners in place w/o the need to remove the studs. If you really need to remove the studs... There's no substitute for Liquid Wrench, Marvel Mystery Oil, and/or WD-40 plus a lot of elbow grease. I use the 'double-nut' method to remove studs. To get the studs out of my 1986 HCI block, I needed a 24" torque wrench to apply enough turning power to get mine out. I don't suggest an impact wrench as the block can crack easily. Additionally, you may want to try 'hot-tanking' the block to remove more corrosion and/or applying some heat to the stud with a propane torch while you wrench on it. Good luck!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 08-30-2005 02:01 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
drtrite Member
|
Thanks for the reply Judson. The head is on the block and the corossion between the stud and the head keep the head from being removed. The car is in NC, at a shop to have a valve job done. They have tried soaking wih different fluids to no avail.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 08-30-2005 04:28 pm |
|
4th Post |
|
Judson Manning Member
|
Have they considered using explosives? But seriously... Valves and guides always need to be replaced, original pistons should never be re-used, and the liners will need to be bored or honed anyway. What I'm getting at is what you can't get to isn't worth much, especially if your machine shop is charging $50-$75/hr to try. I'm pretty sure Bruce Madden has about a dozen core blocks sitting at his shop here in Atlanta that he sells for roughly $350 each. Either Bruce or I can build your engine complete if you want to go this route.for a torque-plate.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Current time is 07:51 am | |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > Frozen haed stud | Top |
