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| R&R trans | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 08-27-2018 04:29 pm |
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1st Post |
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allstateguy Member 
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Any tips on removing and replacing the transmission on a 74 JH? My clutch is fine, so looking for experience on the easiest removal.
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| Posted: 08-28-2018 04:53 am |
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2nd Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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It's been a while but I remember putting the car up on jacks. Then put a trans stand under the stand and loosen the bolts. Removed the bolts for the drive shaft and tie it to the side. Removed bolts for the trans and rested it on the trans stand and slowly backed it out. I put the clutch alignment tool in there just in case. Not that difficult, just dirty and uncomfortable from lying on the ground. Putting it back in the car is just the opposite. Having the trans stand really helps keeping things level and even getting it back into the clutch. You'll have to move it around a little while lowering it to clear the shift lever.
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| Posted: 08-28-2018 06:02 pm |
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3rd Post |
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allstateguy Member
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Thanks Art! Any other advice, like how many extensions does it take to get to the bellhousing bolts? Do you need to support the oil pan on the engine while you're getting the trans out? I have a trans jack, so that will help for sure, but I do hate lying under the car to do work, although I've already spent a long time there doing other chores.
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| Posted: 08-29-2018 04:49 am |
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4th Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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Sorry, I don't remember on the extensions. I do remember trying to clean as much as I could before I started sticking my hands and arms up there. And yes, I did support the engine by the oil pan. Otherwise it has a tendency to pivot down. When I took it out it was just me, so it took a while fiddling with all the small things that pop up. Like dropping a wrench and it gets under you so you have to contort trying to pick it up again. When it went back in, my son helped so it went faster.
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| Posted: 08-29-2018 10:21 pm |
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5th Post |
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redracer Member
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since you say "74, I will assume it's a 4spd(and not a converted to 5spd or Toyotatm) 1)disconnect the battery 2)remove the 2 screws in the back of the center console and the shift knob 3)from the passenger side, remove the center console slightly to unplug the 3 wires for the cigarette lighter(if you have not disconnected the battery, the purple wire is constantly "hot"). now remove the console 4)remove the 4 #2 crosspoint screws holding the shift lever to the tm., being careful as this is spring loaded and yank out the shift lever 5)remove the engine dampener(9/16" bolts) 6)remove the starter and then the #4 crosspoint screw it hides 7)drain tm fluid; if you wish to "save' it, jack the rear of the car much higher than the front and make yourself tm "plug" with 1 3/8" drain tubing and solder it to a copper plate(this will also be helpful in installing the tm since you can fill it up before hand) 8) remove driveshaft and install plug(if desired) 9)remove clutch cable, reverse light connectors, and speedo cable. yank shift lever fork out of its fulcrum pivot (many levers have had their spring steel hold-downs damaged by laying the tm on its side with the lever and ruining it) 10)put a bottle jack or equivalent under oil pan in order to remove the tm support 11) remove the 2 small 10mm head bolts holding the front coverplates to the bell housing 12)remove all the 17mm hex head bolts making careful note of where each one went as there are different lengths 13)wiggle tm out onto your chest; it weighs about 75 pounds so if you feel it's too much for you, you'll need to make/use a tm. "hoist" I probably forgot something here, but that is the gist of it. my normal time ia 5 hours of R&R for 4 spds and 6 hours for 5 spds
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| Posted: 08-29-2018 10:53 pm |
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6th Post |
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allstateguy Member
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Thanks redracer! As to #7 - ("plug" with 1 3/8" drain tubing and solder it to a copper plate) - would you happen to have pix of this? I was thinking of reinstalling the slip yoke of the driveshaft while pulling and reinstalling but it did sound like it would get in the way. The plug sounds nicer if I can make one. On #6, what does the #4 crosspoint screw under the starter do/attach to? I'm sure I'll have more questions as the swap day comes up, but I'm printing this out as it seems very helpful!
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| Posted: 08-29-2018 11:05 pm |
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7th Post |
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redracer Member
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any home center store will have 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" straight drain tubing(copper that has been chrome plated) .Only a good hardware store is likely to have 1 3/8" tubing.(good luck). Assuming you find some, cut off about 2" and solder this to some flat copper to make a leak-proof "plug" All the screws that look like Philips are in fact crosspoint that should be used with a pozidriv screwdriver. A #4 Philips should work in a pinch
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| Posted: 08-29-2018 11:33 pm |
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8th Post |
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answerman Member
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Do yourself a favor (I learned this one the hard way). While you have the transmission out, loosen the fill plug (not the drain plug, you already did that I assume). Do this BEFORE the transmission goes back in. I didn't, and once installed it's hard enough to get at the fill plug as it is without the hassle of trying to loosen one that hasn't been loosened in 40+ years.
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