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| Tensioner removal | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 03-26-2016 07:02 pm |
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1st Post |
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bwalendy Member
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Hi, I have a 1974 JH5. I can't seem to get the tensioner off to replace the bearings. I think that I have looked up and read what I can on this but I am still not getting how to do this. I guess I am just not the brightest porch light on the block. I am wondering what to do next. Do I remove the stud first? What kind of puller or tool do I need? Thanks in advance; I am just not comfortable and afraid to break something. Regards, Bruce
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| Posted: 03-26-2016 09:12 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Screenplay Member
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Hi Bruce, Don't be too hard on yourself; there are a lot of little quirks on this car that need to be learned as you go - even the factory workshop manual isn't particularly clear on too many items. The tensioner is a rather tight fit on the shaft; it's a slide fit more than a press fit. To get the bearing off, I first removed the threaded stud using two nuts (one as a lock nut). I then used a simple two-arm (or two jaw) gear puller to coax the bearing off its shaft. Because the hole for the threaded stud is off-center in the middle of this bearing shaft, it may not provide a solid, flat surface for the center point of the puller to operate. As I recall, I placed a flat fender washer (one that fit just inside the bearing) against the shaft and with the puller, the bearing came off with little fuss. Reinstalling is relatively easy. Square it up and press it on by finger as far as you can go. I then used a 24mm socket and a rubber mallet to tap it into place (24mm fits against the inner bearing race. I pretty sure it's okay to tap on it here; others may wish to chime in on this bit on wisdom!) You can also reinstall the threaded stud at some point, and using the old nut and eccentric, tighten it down until the bearing is back in place. It doesn't hurt to used a little anti-sieze on the shaft and inner bearing race surface, and definitely use a new nylock nut on the final install. Best of luck and let us know how it goes, Clinton Last edited on 03-26-2016 09:25 pm by Screenplay |
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| Posted: 03-26-2016 11:09 pm |
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3rd Post |
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bwalendy Member
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Ok.... I am still quite confused. I guess where the confusion comes in is the language used. I want to use the word tensioner as opposed to bearing as the tensioner is the complete assembly that has the bearings inside. It is my understanding that you remove the tensioner and then you press out and replace the bearings after the tensioner is removed from the engine. Right now my tensioner is still on the engine. I want to remove the tensioner from the engine. I don't want to talk about the bearings yet. At this time I don't want to use the word bearings. I want to know how to remove the complete tensioner assembly from the engine. Once I have the complete assembly removed I will deal with the bearings effectively. What I am asking is how to remove the tensioner assembly in its entirety. Nothing more than that. Once I have the tensioner remove from the car I can deal with the bearings. So, how do I remove the tensioner from the car? Are you saying that you un-screw the stud first and then use a puller to pull the tensioner off? How would that work without the puller to push on something while it is doing the pulling? I am not quite getting it. Regards, Bruce
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| Posted: 03-27-2016 03:00 pm |
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4th Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Clinton is right on the money but seeing you haven't done this before or seen apart just what you are dealing with it is a bit difficult to visualize. The thing sits on a stud that is screwed into the block, that stud is the pivot point for getting tension. Take the nut off the stud and the thing is supposed to come off and you can put it on the bench and change out the bearings. Won't come off, seems stuck ?? this is a common problem, it is either stuck on the stud or in the front cover, put the correct size wrench on the torsion hex and try working it back and forth so it loosens up, freeing from the stud or cover, still won't come then you will need to try and get behind it and pry it out. If you want photo's send me a PM with your e-mail. Brett
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| Posted: 03-27-2016 09:34 pm |
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5th Post |
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bwalendy Member
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Hi, With all of this encouragement I soaked it all down with penetrant over a few days and decided to have a go at it. First I put a socket on the cam hex nut and spun the tensioner around a few dozen times with my impact driver. Then I got a three foot long pry bar and off it came. Woo Hoo! Now I need to get the bottom timing belt pulley off. I am not talking about the water pump belt pulley with the timing mark. I have already removed that. What I am talking about is the belt pulley on the front of the crankshaft with the cogs for the rubber camshaft belt. It does not seem evident to me as to how to remove this thing. Now, I have to say that I have the official JH shop manual and am none too impressed with that particular publication. Please, I know this is a painful progress on my part but it is based on a real need to learn these cars intimately as now we have four of them. Yes, four of them, two running and two for parts. I am not kidding. Let me know if you need any parts. Regards, Bruce
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| Posted: 03-27-2016 10:10 pm |
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6th Post |
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Screenplay Member
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Hi Bruce, Great news on the progress. Kudos to you for getting to know these cars. With four, it is likely you will have at least one or more for a very long time - it may not be marriage but very close to it. To get the crank pulley off, use a 19mm socket on a breaker bar. The bolt is torqued to 58-60 ft. lbs., so it will take a little muscle. Is the engine turning when you do this? Put the car in gear and you should be able to get it off. The pulley has a channel that fits over a woodruf key on the crankshaft, so it must pull straight off - there's no turning it left or right to work it free. For this I used the same two-jaw gear puller that I mentioned the previous post - I don't know of another method. If you don't have a puller, it would be a very good, inexpensive investment. Reinstalling is fairly easy - square it up to the crankshaft and push it by hand as far as possible, and then tap it straight on using a rubber or rawhide mallet. Torque the bolt with its washers to 58-60 lbs. Clinton
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| Posted: 03-28-2016 12:14 am |
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7th Post |
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bwalendy Member
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Hi Clinton, We are talking about two different pulleys. I was talking about the pulley for the timing belt that is behind the pulley that you are mentioning here. I did, just a few minutes ago remove the pulley. I put two bolts in the small bolt holes and made a bar to go across the two bolts. Then I used a slide hammer with a hook attachment to pull off the pulley. Thanks for all the efforts. I am sure I am going to get stuck again very soon. There is much to learn and I am just getting started. Regards, Bruce
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