| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
||||||||||||||
| oil | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 06-14-2005 01:07 am |
|
1st Post |
|
Panini Member 
|
I have run Royal Purple in all of my older cars with great success. Has anyone changed? And what would be the cons of changing? I'm sure the viscocity is thinner then the norm. I have just aquired a 74JH. 18074. I've owned one in the past and am excited to aquire this car for my 14yr old for his first driver.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 06-14-2005 01:18 am |
|
2nd Post |
|
OverdriveGear Member 
|
My father and I spent 3.5 (starting when I was 14) years restoring a 72 mk1 JH for my first driver. I've been obsessed with the cars ever since (2 JH projects later). Most importantly, it's great father/son bonding experience. I don't have an answer to your oil question; I just thought I'd commend you for your project.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 06-14-2005 04:44 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
Judson Manning Member 
|
I don't want to oversimplify your question, but there is some merit to the phrase: oil is oil. Chose a viscosity that keeps oil pressure as high and as consistant as possible. Royal Purple makes an excellent product, but when I resurect 'dead' engines, it's not the oil that killed them, it was the sludge. The JH oil cooler and valve cover design traps over a quart of contaminated oil in the engine. Over time, simply changing the oil nets you with contaminated oil that ALWAYS has 500-1000miles on it. Without 'clean' oil in the crankcase, the rings get gummed up, blowby increases, and I start getting calls from people needing a rebuild. Not only do you have to change the oil when it becomes black (contaminated), you have to flush that crud out of your engine on a regular basis. I recently bought a Mercedes w/ 50k miles on it, serviced religously by MB using Mobil 1 synthetic. It took me 18qts of 5W20, two quarts of "motor flush" and two filters to get the crankcase cleaned out enough so I could refill it w/ CLEAN Mobil 1. No matter what oil you chose, change and flush your engine regularly, and use products like Slick 50 at regular intervals. My Infiniti M30 lasted 12 years, 243k miles, survived numerous driving schools, and won me 2 second place trophies for a reason! PS: I run good ole Castol 20W50 in the 907/910 hybrid
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 06-14-2005 06:57 pm |
|
4th Post |
|
Sander Member 
|
Castrol oil is on sale at Advance Auto for $1.48/qt !! JMan ... is it possible to bring the car by tonight or tomorrow night? Last edited on 06-14-2005 09:07 pm by Sander |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 06-15-2005 01:47 am |
|
5th Post |
|
Panini Member
|
Judson, Just the advise I was looking for. Now for a elementary question. How do you flush out the sludge? Pan ODGear, I'm really looking forward to this. He already contacted Vintage Air and has plans to put in A/C. It's almost a must here in TX.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 06-15-2005 02:27 pm |
|
6th Post |
|
Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
|
Wouldn't using Motor Flush leave some of it in the engine diluting the new oil? Even with repeated oil changes you would still get 'homeopathic' Motor Flush. Kurt
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 06-15-2005 02:27 pm |
|
7th Post |
|
StabnSteer Member 
|
I've run Royal Purple 20/50 in my newly rebuilt engine. No problems, and the oil pressure stayed right where it was supposed to. And Judson... Slick 50????? It's snake oil... http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/07/slick.htm The reason your engines lasted so long is due to your diligent oil changing regimen.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 06-15-2005 02:36 pm |
|
8th Post |
|
Judson Manning Member
|
A lot of sevice manuals will advise you to remove the oil pan, however, that's not enough for the JH because our oil cooler and cam towers are sludge collectors. One option is to tear apart the engine and clean it by hand....Instead, I prefer another method. It basically consists of changing the oil several times over the course of a few hours. Depening on my mood and the state of the oil, I'll buy a case of cheap 5W20 and a quart or two of 'motor flush' from the auto part store. I drain the old oil then refill it w/ motor flush and the 5W20. Idle it for about 5-10min (don't ever drive with this stuff in the crankcase) and change it again. The process of draining, filling and idling the engine continues until you finally open the drainplug and somewhat 'normal/clean' looking oil comes out. It could take you one application, or it could take you as many as 3-5 complete oil changes before that crud gets out of your engine.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 06-15-2005 02:58 pm |
|
9th Post |
|
Judson Manning Member
|
Kurt, I'm sure there will always be traces of 'motor flush' and/or 5W20 lurking in your engine if you follow my advice. My method is really a short-cut, the 'best' procedure would be to use your 'chosen' oil to flush the system....it just takes longer, and especially if you're using Synthetic, it's going to cost a lot for that piece of mind. Keep in mind, this is a once every 20k-50k mile kind of thing. By the time you do another 'regular' oil change, the 5W20 and detergent residues will be history. StabnSteer, I'm well aware of the claims against Slick50 and their BS claim regarding 'engine start-up performance'. Fact is, I wasn't that diligent with the Infiniti, and there is some merit to PTFE in the right applications. It could be a placebo effect, or maybe I just want to feel better about spending $200-$300 on Slick50 over the years! lol Judson
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 06-17-2005 11:36 pm |
|
10th Post |
|
Panini Member
|
Judson, Took three rounds using 2 filters, 2 Gunks . It's a good piece of mind. Thanks again for your help!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Current time is 09:45 pm | |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > oil | Top |
