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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| Oil weights | Rating: 
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| Posted: 11-14-2008 10:44 pm |
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1st Post |
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subwoofer Member
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To be honest, oil weights were a bit of a mystery to me, but then I found this (http://www.supramania.com/aehaas/, and as far as I can tell, it makes sense. What oils do people living in not-so-hot climates use for their JHs? Has anyone gone as far as 0W-30, and what were the results? There is plenty of choice in 5W-40, but I we are to trust the articles, 0W-30 should be a whole lot better for the wear of the engine. Waddaya think? -- Joachim
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| Posted: 11-15-2008 02:00 am |
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2nd Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
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Good article. I'll test for 10psi per 1000 rpm tomorrow if the weather holds. Kurt
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| Posted: 11-15-2008 01:24 pm |
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3rd Post |
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subwoofer Member
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I'm just writing this to think aloud - that way someone can arrest me if I am completely off track. The oil pump is a positiv displacement device, so amount of oil going through the pump is simply proportional to engine revs. It can, however, only handle a certain amount of back pressure before destroying itself, that is why there is a pressure regulator bypass valve. Once that valve starts cracking open, oil flow diverts to the bypass from the engine - where it really is supposed to go. Since oil pressure has no effect on the lubrication of plain bearings - other than providing the driving force for moving oil to them, the conventional wisdom that high oil pressure is good is wrong. The amount of oil moved by the pump is not related to oil viscosity, but the amount reaching the bearings definately is. Oil flow into the engine will not exceed the amount going into the engine at the RPM where the bypass valve cracking pressure is reached, thus we should choose the highest oil weight that causes the oil pressure regulator to kick in at around max RPMs, possibly just a bit earlier. Time to dig out my books in fluid mechanics and oil hydraulics, haven't really thought of those subjects for 12 or 13 years. -- Joachim
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| Posted: 11-16-2008 04:30 am |
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4th Post |
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Sylva Member
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OK Joechim I was told by people at Lotus, that the only oil to use on a 900 is castrol RS, but this is a 60 so maybe in Oslo there is an argument for a lighter oil, but I would prefer to use a sump heater, amd not get a real cold start..thats what I always did on my BMW's when I lived in Stavanger. Now a question my children live in Haugusund, and I'm thinking about a JH for their 18th Birthday, I know about the 30 year tax free inport rule in Norway, and I did take a 7 series in once whn I had been away from Norway for 6 years, but did you have any problem registering the JH, is there any one in Norway who knows about the 907? and what is insurance cost like. I'd appreciate youir advice. Thanks Kelvin
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| Posted: 11-16-2008 07:57 am |
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5th Post |
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subwoofer Member
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When you came back after 6 years abroad, you brought the car in as a "household possesion" (flyttegods), where special rules apply. At the moment, I think there is more than 30 JHs in Norway, and if you need any help, please contact Jensenklubben (http://www.jensencars.org) If I had any problems? Depends how you look at it. I was able to register it as a "vehicle of historic value" without any more ado, but with that follows a note in the registration papers that the car is not for everyday use, and that it should remain all original (hence my requirement for stealth mods). I am trying to unearth the required documentation to get rid of the note, but that is turning into a bit of a nightmare. Although any fool can see that the brakes and steering column is identical for the US and european models, and that the California emissions standards where stricter than anything in Europe at the time, a cross reference is not enough for the bureaucrats. If the car is E-marked (I think E12, E13 an E15 are the only ones requires in the early to mid 70s), i.e. was not built for the North American market, you shouldn't have any problems registering it at all. Import will cost you 25% VAT + 5000 NOK, insurance will cost less than 1000 NOK per year ("kasko" - full coverage) provided it is not your primary car (usage restrictions apply). As far as Lotus engines go, there is a company in Drammen that knows the engines, and they did not flinch when I asked if they can do a 10-dowel job, so for major engine work, help can be found. Other than that - do it yourself. HTH! -- Joachim
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| Posted: 01-14-2009 11:07 am |
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6th Post |
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RossB Member 
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I found this interesting paper today about oils, oil viscosity, heat, etc. It is one of the few things I have read about oils that appears to be both well researched and easy for a layperson to understand. It doesn't take long to read and while it is aimed at owners of the Corsair, applies just as well to any model of car. I offer it here for your consideration. http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/html/oils.html Cheers, Ross.
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| Posted: 01-18-2009 09:03 pm |
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7th Post |
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jgreen Member
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Excellent article, I never knew that storing oil in the garage when the weather turns cold RUINs the oil by turning it to a waxy residue. Well, I can just imagine my wife's face when she observes me bring oil in t he house to store before winter. Damm, I ruined two cases of vr-1 20-50w already as it's been in the garage since fall.
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