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| Fuel Pump vs Fuel Lines | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 10-06-2018 04:31 am |
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1st Post |
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flatlanderep Member 
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I purchased a 1973 JH 2 years ago with Dellortos. It was not running well and I took it to a British car repair shop in Durham, NC last summer. He worked on carbs and a lot of other work as well. Been running fine until 2 weeks ago when it started sputtering when I picked up speed but made it home. Subsequent short test drives were similar and when I had it revving in the drive way, it would sputter and die. Decided it was not getting fuel at the carbs. Bought new Facet pump and filter from Delta. Bought new fuel line tubing at local auto store and installed and started right up. Took it out for short drive around neighborhood and all seemed good. Was going to take it out tonight for a drive but soon as I started it, revs very rough, sputtered, with loud mis-fires and then sputtered and quit. Been reading all the posts and I did not notice the in line bullet shaped flow regulator so assume did not have one. Only other thing I read is the fuel hose diameter in the trunk. Shop gave me 3/8" but posts mentioned 5/16. Could this be the problem? Also, how do you measure pressure in fuel line at the carbs? Any help is appreciated. Steve (Greenville, NC) Last edited on 10-06-2018 04:31 am by flatlanderep |
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| Posted: 10-06-2018 07:39 am |
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2nd Post |
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Randallclary@icloud.com Member
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So have you checked the small basket filters on each carb just the fuel line. Sometimes debris builds up and causes blockage.
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| Posted: 10-06-2018 02:47 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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3/8" verses 5/16" not a issue, that speaks of volume of gas delivered, not pressure. pressure can be tested by putting a tee in the gas line with a gauge on it, normal reading is 2.5 to 3 lbs. Home Depot in plumbing supplies.
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| Posted: 10-06-2018 04:47 pm |
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4th Post |
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flatlanderep Member
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Where are the baskets located on the Dellortos? Last edited on 10-06-2018 04:56 pm by flatlanderep |
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| Posted: 10-06-2018 04:56 pm |
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5th Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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The gas supply line coming from the tank into the engine bay, the line supplies both Dell's, put it inline BEFORE both, add more hose if need be, each Dell is normally supplied top Left, that's were the small filter is located that Randall was referring to, inside the large Nut.
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| Posted: 10-06-2018 05:04 pm |
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6th Post |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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What does your inline fuel filter in the boot look like? The JH fuel tanks are notorious for rusting inside, they can get quite nasty and can introduce a significant amount of debris into the fuel system. I would check the inside of the tank for corrosion. Most Jensen Healeys that I have seen need the fuel tanks rebuilt.
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| Posted: 10-06-2018 05:41 pm |
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7th Post |
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flatlanderep Member
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I found the baskets located under the nut and they were clean. There were specks in a small container that I used to remove the bolt on to get to the basket on the carb closest to the fire wall. I then did a test to check for gas coming into the front carb by removing the fuel line hose and running it into a container. I turned the key and it has good flow and gas collected in container was clear with no specks of any debris. So is there a problem in the flow of fuel in the carbs?
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| Posted: 10-06-2018 05:50 pm |
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8th Post |
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flatlanderep Member
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Fuel filter is new and I have owned 2 other JHs and know the tanks are problematic and at some point I do want to replace it or have it re-done. New update, I just started it but it was difficult starting. As I revved it, there was a loud bang on the right side of the engine bay and saw a spark in engine bay. Shut it down immediately. Any answers??
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| Posted: 10-06-2018 09:16 pm |
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9th Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Stop looking at the carbs, and make doubly sure you’re ignition system is not the issue.
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| Posted: 10-20-2018 01:12 am |
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10th Post |
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flatlanderep Member
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OK, to start with ignition issue, I checked the plugs and they were foul with black coating. Changed plugs with gap of 0.035 with Dells. Went to start it and it just keeps cranking and does not turn over. Batter is good. What next, starter/solenoid/coil? It was running but with sputtering several weeks ago.
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| Posted: 10-20-2018 05:06 am |
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11th Post |
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Tom Bradley Member
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If the engine is cranking, then the starter and solenoid should be OK. Here is what I would check: 1) bad connections: make sure the 12V electrical connections to the coil are tight. If all of the spark plugs are showing the same effect then the HV wire from the coil to the distributor may be loose or have gone bad. If only one spark plug looked bad, then it could be the wire to that particular plug. This could be the cause of the spark you saw in the engine compartment. Do you have the tool for plugging the wires to the spark plugs? If makes it much easier to make sure the connections are good. One loose wire to one plug can cause really nasty misfiring and other problems, which brings up #2. 2) Distributor cap: This is one of the weakest links in the system, especially if you have electronic ignition. The cap really is not made for these kind of voltages. So if there is a loose connection to one of the plugs, the spark can jump other places, often damaging the cap in the process. I have gone through a huge number of these over the years. So check if for any cracks or discoloration. Better yet, replace it and the rotor. They're relative cheap. Keep a spare around as well. Since you saw a spark in the engine compartment, the coil was good at that time, so should be OK. They don't go bad very often or easily. If you want to have a spare around to double check it, just get an ordinary inexpensive one, no need for anything expensive. It should run OK regardless. Do you still have mechanical points? These go bad easily. Switching to a Pertronix 2 would be worth your while. Hope this is of some help. Tom Last edited on 10-20-2018 05:06 am by Tom Bradley |
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| Posted: 10-20-2018 10:05 pm |
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12th Post |
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flatlanderep Member
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Here is the latest, checked all wires on coil and starter, cleaned them and made sure connections are tight. Checked plug wires to distributor cap. Noticed the wire from coil to distributor cap does not fit snugly. Also is there 1 or 2 retainer clips that hold the distributor cap? The clip that I see is secure but I can lift the cap away from the housing on the opposite side of the cap. This does not seem right??
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| Posted: 10-21-2018 05:58 am |
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13th Post |
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Tom Bradley Member
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Sounds like a loose distributor cap is the problem, or at least the main one. Yes, there is a clip on the back of the distributor. It is difficult to get to and when installing the distributor it can feel like the clip is snapped in correctly when it is not. It is important to visually check that the clip is correctly snapped in correctly to keep the distributor cap from coming loose at the back. I always clip the back on first, check that it is right, then do the front clip. One of the special joys of the Lotus engine experience.
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| Posted: 10-22-2018 05:13 am |
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14th Post |
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Randallclary@icloud.com Member
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Easiest way to get to the back clip is to first note the position of the distributor which should be correct when the timing is about 12 degrees. Then loosen the distributor and turn it so you can get to the back clip. Remove or close the clip based on whether you are removing or reinstalling the distributor cap then turn the distributor so you can install or remove the other clip. Get the timing set close by the marks the. Start the car and reset the timing. No more busted knuckles.
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| Posted: 11-04-2018 11:25 pm |
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15th Post |
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flatlanderep Member
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Bought new spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. Put on new rotor and both clips on distributor cap. When I removed the old distributor cap, 3 spark plug wires came off the distributor before I could mark their order on the cap. Can someone tell me the spark plug order location on the distributor cap? My 1st attempt at it failed because it is not starting. Thanks. Steve
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| Posted: 11-05-2018 04:37 am |
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16th Post |
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Randallclary@icloud.com Member
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Turn the engine over manually by 1st removing the plugs then get #1 piston to TDC with the cam shaft marks in a matched position in between the camshafts. Then make sure that the #1 spark plug wire is connected to the cap that matches the position on the distributor rotor.
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| Posted: 11-05-2018 04:40 am |
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17th Post |
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Randallclary@icloud.com Member
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If you want me to walk you thru it on the phone, call me at 909-938-2090. It’s fairly simple process once you do it a couple of times.
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| Posted: 11-05-2018 01:54 pm |
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18th Post |
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Randallclary@icloud.com Member
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I forgot to add the firing order 1-4-3-2. I’m fairly sure of that. Randy Clary 909-938-2090
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| Posted: 11-05-2018 05:00 pm |
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19th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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Close, but not quite. The firing order is 1-3-4-2. The cylinders fire from center out, front pair, then rear pair. So 2-1-3-4-2-1-3-4... Since our little minds like to start any sequence with "1", that becomes 1-3-4-2. That's not the only firing order used on 4-cylinder engines, but it's probably the most common. This thread has sure morphed from fuel pumps & lines. Regards, Tim Engel
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| Posted: 11-05-2018 09:58 pm |
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20th Post |
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Randallclary@icloud.com Member
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Thanks Tim. Do my other comments seem ok?
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