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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| Jammed boot lock | Rating: 
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| Posted: 09-21-2006 07:37 am |
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1st Post |
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chrisl Member 
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Hi there and greetings from Down Under My 1973 Mk1 boot lock is jammed completely. Locksmiths won't touch it. Have tried getting in via the spare wheel collar in the boot floor, alas no luck. May have to (this makes me feel sick) cut a hole in the rear panel or boot lid. Anyone out there hit a similar problem?
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| Posted: 09-21-2006 08:28 am |
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2nd Post |
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Tony Hollart Member
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What part of the lock is not working? Is the key going in and turning as per normal, if yes that means the little lever arm is not tripping the lock mechanism. The actual lock is not that securly held in place, it has a slip on collar with two prongs that open up when placed through the boot panel, they stick out about 3 mm each side, so its not far but effective enough to hold everything in place. I would keep wiggleing the lock to try and pry it out, you may end up with a small amount of panel damage from the prongs but it would still be less than cutting a hole. I have my boot without the lock in place at present and open by putting my pinky in the hole to trip the mechanism. Hope this helps. Tony H.
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| Posted: 09-21-2006 08:41 am |
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3rd Post |
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chrisl Member
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Thanks Tony Yes, you've got the problem exactly - the key goes in, turns but doesn't open the locking mechanism. The boot lid is in good shape... The suggestion made by several has been to make an access hole behind the number plate, have been chatting to Ross Hockley in Sydney about the best spot to do it, but just the thought of it just makes me feel a bit crook. I wouldn't be too bothered except that one of the rear lights isn't working at all and I'm getting flak from people behind me when I forget my hand signals to turn right! Plus me tools are in there. Have tried just about all the wiggling I can, but will give your suggestion a go. Watch this space
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| Posted: 09-21-2006 09:51 am |
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4th Post |
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Tony Hollart Member
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You may be able to trip the mechanism through one ( or both ) of the number plate lights, have you ever seen the mechanism, it helps if you have a mental picture of what your trying to trip. I have had a phobia of this happening to me also, so I have fitted a cable operated boot release, it goes from under the drivers seat on the RHS, into the boot and into the boot lid, where it connects to the part of the mechanism that must be tripped. If you need to get a picture of the lock apart I could post some photos. If the key turns but no trip then the screw that holds the lever has come loose, its going to be tricky to get it open. Tony H.
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| Posted: 09-21-2006 10:18 am |
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5th Post |
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chrisl Member
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Yes, the problem is that the barrel turns but won't engage the locking mechanism to release it. I made the mistake of getting some work done on it and forgetting to tell them to lean on the boot before turning the key. It's now kaput. Your idea re a cable release is a good one. Will do it if and when I get this little beast apart. Can't get to it via the number plate illuminator, there's no path through. Will let you know how I get on!
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| Posted: 09-21-2006 01:49 pm |
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6th Post |
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jcdean Member
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This happened to me quite a few years back as well. I took a dent puller (slide hammer) and screwed it into the key slot. One good smack and the core came right out. Put my pinky in the hole, gave it a twist, up popped the lid. It didn't bend anything and Delta had a new lock and key to me by weeks end. Joey
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| Posted: 09-21-2006 02:28 pm |
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7th Post |
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colinw59 Member 
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I was paranoid about this happening when I put 15851 back together. I double checked everything before I finally closed the trunk, leaving the taillights out just in case. All was well though, and as it happens the lock sometimes gets loose on closing. If all else fails Chris, drill out the lock barrel which would enable you to actuate the lever by hand, and then get a new lock & key from Delta. Good luck, Colin
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| Posted: 09-30-2006 06:14 am |
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8th Post |
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chrisl Member
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Dear all Success. While recuperating from a small op (after 4 kids the Arguments Dept decided it was time for a trip to the knackers yard for me...) I had a good long look at the thing. The lock was a little loose so after a bit of coaching with a screwdriver and a rag to protect the paintwork I got one side of the retaining clip free. The other side was a little more difficult, but looked like it may have been done before so I was able to pry it up and out. Out came the lock and the rest was easy. Removal has caused a small amount of damage to the boot lid around the lock hole, but at least now I can get the indicator/brake light working again. Should be able to refit the lock after tapping the bent edges back into shape. By the by, I did try going through the floorpan of the boot by knocking the spare wheel retaining tube back into the boot and trying to release the locking mechanism with a 2' bit of steel but it was just too darn hard with the exhaust in the way. Thought about taking the exhaust off but thankfully (!) surgery beckoned and an easy way out came. Oh well, having pulled it all off I might as well do a bit of work and repaint the spare wheel carrier. Will now fit a cable release! Thanks all for your helpful advice, give me a yell if you're ever over on the west coast of Oz. Chris L
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| Posted: 10-07-2006 11:21 pm |
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9th Post |
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edward_davis Member 
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Where would folks suggest as the best place to buy a cable release/ electric release?
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| Posted: 10-08-2006 09:10 am |
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10th Post |
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Tony Hollart Member
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A electric release would be an elegant solution but the solenoid that does the 'clunk' would need to fit inside the boot lid to trip the lock, as working on the lock is a bit like 'key hole' surgery and there is not much room in there or ease of installation. Boot release cable I got was from the wreckers yard, they charge $10 for small items and the cable from any hatch back type car will do. Get the lever end bracket and the bit that goes in the boot also, a little bit of fiddling and it works. There is a another option to do emergency release make up a loop of wire on the trip mechanisim that keep the boot closed and bring it out to one of the number plate lights, if the key breaks off or lock will not open you can take the lens off and pull the wire to trip. Only you will know its there so does not comprimise security of the car ( as if there is any on a convertible in the first place ) Dare I put forward a fourth option? When at the wreckers getting your boot release cable and a electric solenoid, get the whole hatchback lock. If you put the trip mechanisim onto the body of the car and the fixed tounge onto the boot lid and set it up you can have electric and cable release but you lose the key option. I toyed with this myself but have not done it as my car needs to go in for a VIN check as the registration has lapsed and the easiest route to getting it through is to have everything as standard as the factory made it, which is pretty difficult because some of the welding a putting the together the factory did was pretty poor, I like to think I have made it better than when it left the factory. We will have to see if the person carrying out the VIN agrees. Tony H.
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