| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
||||||||||||||
| Headlight surround removal on 73 JH | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 07-27-2006 06:46 am |
|
1st Post |
|
Dana McPeek Guest
|
After removing the 2 screws under the edge of the hood, how is the surround/nacele removed? The manual is no help. Dana McPeek 1973 Jensen Healey MkI 1110/11609[code]
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-27-2006 10:31 am |
|
2nd Post |
|
Harkes Member 
|
there is another bolt, but you have to reach inside the wheel arche/space. Once you have removed that bolt it comes off easily. Good luck. Erik
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-27-2006 05:37 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
Dana McPeek Guest
|
will do that today. Thanks
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 10-19-2018 03:35 am |
|
4th Post |
|
noomg Member
|
Do yourself a favor, when you reinstall the headlight surrounds replace that nut with a stainless steel wingnut.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 05-18-2020 05:48 pm |
|
5th Post |
|
PF18602 Member
|
For anyone that was as confused as I was about how that whole assembly worked: I pulled the bolt out and found that it was one of the threaded inserts meant for plastic. Planning to epoxy it back in. The stud size is 1/4-28. Rare, and especially difficult to find wing nuts for that thread count and size. Ended up getting some brass ones from McMaster-Carr Happy Jensening, Patrick Attachment: 2DED845F-99AE-468D-ABDE-39849DEB81B4.jpeg (Downloaded 78 times)
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 05-19-2020 06:33 pm |
|
6th Post |
|
noomg Member
|
Brass should work however it is softer than S/S which might make it more susceptible to striping treads. You can usually find S/S wingnuts at your local marine chandlery.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 05-19-2020 07:47 pm |
|
7th Post |
|
redracer Member
|
the steel 1/4"X 28 thds is NOT glued into place. There is(was in your case??) a brass split female insert(knurled on the outside) that expanded when the rod is screwed into it. If you still have the brass insert(I do have quite few, just in case) separate that from the rod and maybe epoxy/fiberglass the hole & redrill if necessary. When you do put the shroud back on, be sure to adjust the inner nut & washer to keep it about 1/8" off the fender top or you WILL CRACK THE SHROUD--All vehicles "flex" to keep pieces from breaking/cracking. good luck, bruce
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 05-20-2020 05:16 pm |
|
8th Post |
|
PF18602 Member
|
I’m sure the knurled brass insert on mine wasn’t glued in before; but it was loose in it’s seating. It is also fully seized onto the stud, so instead of try to replace all those parts, and I don’t see any reason that it would need to come out again, so I’ll just make it permanent. I liked the idea of brass for the reason of it being softer. With everything adjusted well, the cowl shouldn’t have that much load on the wingnut, and I think it will take vibration better, and a lock washer will have more of an effect on it since it can dig in a bit. 1/4-28 is a weird size, so McMaster was the only place I could find them. Patrick
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 05-22-2020 03:47 pm |
|
9th Post |
|
noomg Member
|
I've found installation of the headlight buckets tends to be a bit of an art as much as a mechanical installation. It's yet another thing which makes me think the Jensen-Healey is somewhere between a production vehicle and a hand built car. Another example is the armrests being carved out of wood, not something you expect to see on a production car.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Current time is 06:40 am | |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Body & interior stuff > Headlight surround removal on 73 JH | Top |
