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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| BODY BRACING | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 02-02-2006 11:39 pm |
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1st Post |
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TXJH Member
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Is it advisable to install door opening braces on the J-H when it is mounted on a rotisserie? I had to cut a large portion of the floor panels out due to rust and would like to weld the new ones in while it is on the rotisserie for ease of welding. I am concerned about possible body twist. The transmission tunnel is in great shape and the door jamb has slight rusting at the bottom rear.
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| Posted: 02-03-2006 06:15 am |
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2nd Post |
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pc Member
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It’s advisable to install door opening braces in any car when mounting it on a rotisserie for panel replacement, especially any 30 year old British unibody. PC.
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| Posted: 02-03-2006 12:59 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Mitch Ware Member 
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Also, only remove one floor at a time and replace it prior to removing the other floor. Mitch Ware 1974 JH-5 #111119670 1971 TR-6 #CC66950LO
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| Posted: 02-03-2006 04:31 pm |
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4th Post |
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eddieb Member
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I am also replacing the floor pans on a 74 Jensen that I have. I dont have a rotator and was wondering the best way to go about this without one. Do i need to brace the car if i do one side at a time. I am making my own floor pans due to the costs of new ones. Thanks for any help you could give me.
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| Posted: 02-05-2006 12:49 am |
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5th Post |
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LambandAndy Member 
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Welcome eddieb, I am also working on making my own floor pans, and not being a sheet metal pro, would like to share notes with you or anyone else. I found this article on the web for an MGB floor pan replacement which gives some pretty good tips applicable to the JH. http://www.britishmotoring.net/bm0502/F_Pan_Fix/F_Pan_Fix.html I opted to make my pans in two parts one, because it was easier, and two, my home made break is only 36" wide. The two pieces join right at the "bend" in the transmission tunnel. I also made the flanges, that attach to the sill and the transmission tunnel, wider so I can trim as necessary when I install. I'm not to sure how the front part where it attaches to the bulkhead and the back of the front wheel arch is going to work out. Some trimming and bending is probably going to be necessary. If anyone has a picture of a "factory" floor pan off the car it would be very helpful. Andy #15223 Attachment: floorpan1.jpg (Downloaded 206 times)
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| Posted: 02-09-2006 01:24 am |
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6th Post |
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Thomas Thomson Member
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I wish that I had been clever enuf to do that on16036. I made serious reinforcements with the car slightly bent. It is now permanently slightly bent. Tom
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| Posted: 02-09-2006 01:53 am |
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7th Post |
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Jim Sohl Member
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An easy method to determine whether the alignment has been disturbed is to leave the doors attached and make sure that they open, close, and latch properly BEFORE welding. I welded new 'rocker panels' on my jh and later found out that alignment with the new rockers was different. How did I know? The doors fit differently, like alot differently! Be careful, it is worth the trouble.
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| Posted: 02-10-2006 06:36 pm |
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8th Post |
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eddieb Member
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Nice work LambandAndy, Do you know what the prefered bracing method would be for replacing the floor pans if not put it on a roator. Also what thickness meteal are you useing. I was also wondering if anyone out there had contacted a meteal fabrication company about making floor pans Thanks Eddie
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| Posted: 02-10-2006 06:48 pm |
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9th Post |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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Speaking of body and panel repair- FYI the club has a set of rotisserie brackets (you'll need to supply the jack part) that bolt onto the body front and back and allow the car to be rotated and worked on. The bracket rental is no-charge, keep them as long as you need them, the user just pays shipping to and from. Drop me a line if interested greg@jhps.com
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| Posted: 02-12-2006 12:57 am |
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10th Post |
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LambandAndy Member
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Eddie, I'm almost done installing the passenger side floor pan (and have not yet cut out the drivers side). I supported the car on some 6 ton, 24" high jack stands ($30 a pair at Advenced Autoparts) under the rear axle and the front lower suspension arms so that the car is essentially sitting on its own springs (no door braces). I'm not sure if this is the recommended method but I have been checking the door alignment frequently and nothing seems to have moved. I will pass on some of the lessons I have learned so far on making and installing your own floor pans. 1. Do not cut the first piece of new metal until you have removed the old pan!!!!!. My nice shiny new floor pans that I made in advance did not fit worth a _____ ! Started again from scratch. Cut yourself a few stips a few inches wide and practice bending them until you get the profile right. The first ones were good practice with the welder though. 2. The damage you can do with an air chisel in about five seconds can take several hours to repair. 3. Leave the rear transmission mount angle bracket (welded to the side of the transmission tunnel) in place. (See above comment about air chisel). The transmission mount will also help to keep the side of the tunnel straight after the floor is removed (Don't foget to support the transmission). 4. Lying on your back welding and grinding with burning underseal dropping down the front of you shirt is not fun. If you can afford it, I would strongly recommend considering taking Greg up on his offer of using the Club's rotisserie brackets. I have been taking pictures as I go with this project and am also working on a detailed drawing of the floor pans. When I get done I will try to put it all together and maybe submit it to Greg for the Club magazine. Hope some of this helps, Andy
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