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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| Center Console | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 11-25-2018 03:50 pm |
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1st Post |
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noomg Member
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As I'm approaching the end of the exterior restoration of my J-H I'll be turning to the interior. I'll be needing new carpet and upholstery but I don't think I'm going to reinstall the center console. I pulled it out a few years ago because it was causing the gears to grind(most notably first)by restricting gearshift movement. I actually like the look of the interior without the console and shifting is so much smoother.
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| Posted: 11-25-2018 04:15 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Frank Schwartz Member
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IIRC I had a problem like this. Under the car you will note the bracket that holds the end of the transmission has two slotted holes that the bolts that hold the transmission tail go into. I loosened the two bolts and manhandled the tail end over enough so the shifter then worked as I needed it to be. Take a look under your car....and you might be able to fix that problem. Frank
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| Posted: 11-26-2018 02:20 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Franks correct, you either have the trans not in the right spot or the consul itself. No way did the factory design a car that would have interference from the consul during shifting. Brett
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| Posted: 11-29-2018 09:27 pm |
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4th Post |
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Rick in Miami Member
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Broke my shifter mount (Part # 17) today and was not able to get into 1st 3rd or 5th. Hobbled a couple miles home in 2nd and 4th. Had to cut the nut off the interior side of the mount as the stud was stripped. Apparently there had been a lot of sideways tension on the mount as the tunnel and shifter holes were mis-aligned. Checked Motor mounts to see if they could have been a contributing factor but they look OK. Attachment: GearboxControls-5-Speed.gif (Downloaded 123 times)
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| Posted: 11-30-2018 06:08 pm |
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5th Post |
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Frank Schwartz Member
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I should think that with a new part #17 (Delta Motorsports), you should be a "go" If you still have the problem with first and 2nd hitting the side, remember the transmission mount allows for the tail post to be moved...which usually solves that problem. However with that bad mount #17 replaced, you might have solved all the problems in the past. Let us know... Frank
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| Posted: 11-30-2018 06:17 pm |
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6th Post |
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Frank Schwartz Member
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Another thought......if part number 13 wobbles and is loose, the steel pin that goes through the ball in the end is a much harder steel than the ball end and it often wears the ball end and causes sloppiness. Pete Bahr used to have a machinist that bushed the end, but dear Pete passed away. While the whereabouts of his son are known, he will not answer repeated requests for an answer as to what has been done with his car and how to reach his mechanic.My fix is to drill and tap the end of the ball end of #13 and put in a small grub screw to hold the pin in place and it works nicely, but does make reassembly a bit dicey. Note part number 14, the nylon bushings are also a point of wear and Delta sells a set of the nylon bushings to repair that end. I once machined a set of oilite bushings for replacing the nylon and it worked a treat (as the Brits say) but is not easy to do. Frank
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| Posted: 11-30-2018 08:02 pm |
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7th Post |
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Rick in Miami Member
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Thanks Frank ~ I should have the new mount from Delta by Monday. For now, just lifting the assembly allows me to access all gears. While I’m under the car I’ll try adjusting the trans to the left via the trans mount. The rest of the shifter is fine as all the bushings, etc had been replaced by the PO. Rick
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| Posted: 11-30-2018 09:38 pm |
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8th Post |
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Frank Schwartz Member
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Good news!! Please keep us posted as to your progress. Frank
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| Posted: 12-05-2018 02:36 pm |
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9th Post |
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Rick in Miami Member
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Got it all back together yesterday. What a job getting the remains of the mount off of the shifter remote! With the rubber gone, there was nothing to grab hold of to keep it from turning while I removed the rusted nut from below. I was finally able to wedge a sharpened screw driver under it to loosen enough that I could finally hold it with a vice grips. That and a lot of penetrating oil did the trick. Maneuvering around the driveshaft although difficult was not impossible. I didn’t see a way to adjust the trans to the left, nor did I want to disturb the relationship between the exhaust header and the steering shaft so I drilled a new mounting hole in the tunnel 5/8” to the right of the original. Still plenty of clearance between the shifter and tunnel. Glad to have this project behind me. Attachment: mount.jpg (Downloaded 87 times)
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| Posted: 12-05-2018 06:42 pm |
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10th Post |
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redracer Member
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Sorry you drilled a new hole: reslotting the "U" shaped bracket AND loosening the front 2 nuts for the rubber engine mounts(use a whelled floor jack to help moving it) should have given you good results. As for the broken rubber tm. support, if you didn't get one from DELTA, a bolt with some old shock rubber would do the trick.
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| Posted: 12-06-2018 03:32 pm |
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11th Post |
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Rick in Miami Member
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Thanks Bruce. I would have preferred to do as you suggested, however living in a townhome community (with an HOA that frowns on car repairs) I don’t have the facilities where I can devote the extended time necessary to do the ‘proper’ repair, nor would I have the confidence in a local shop to do it correctly for me. To keep the repair time to a minimum, and considering the engine/gearbox has been angled to the right by just 5/8” for the five years that I’ve had the car (and probably long before), a new hole was the way to go. Driving season in South Florida is just beginning and I’m back on the road. Cheers ~ Rick
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