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| Doors | Rating: 
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| Posted: 03-20-2005 06:44 pm |
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1st Post |
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John Kimbrough Member
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When I removed the interior panels from the doors, I found that the pressboard on one of them was seriously water damaged and that both of them had warped and waved. I will probably replace both of them. Hence my stupid question. How does one insert the "Christmas Tree" white plastic press fittings into the new panel board. These press fittings look like they are one piece and there is no obvious way to get them through the pressboard. Thanks John John's Jensen Healey Web Page
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| Posted: 03-20-2005 08:35 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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If yours are like the presumed-original ones I found on my car, the flat disk at the top is only 3/4 of a full circle. In my case it was fairly easy to rotate the parts out of the old hardboards and into the new ones -- sort of like giant screws. Since the original parts are likely to be fragile due to age, and exact replacements seem to be unavailable, if I were going to be replacing hardboards I'd go down to my local auto parts store, see what they had that was looked like it would work, and buy enough of those to do the whole car. Checking my notes, I find that James Brinkley reported using this process with two items from Kragen Auto Parts: PA 6120042 Trim Panel Rtnr 45474 PA 6119903 Trim Panel Rtnr 45115
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| Posted: 03-20-2005 11:58 pm |
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3rd Post |
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John Kimbrough Member
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Thanks, Mark. I am using hardboard (from Home Depot) as a substitute for the original panels, so I test drilled a couple of holes and finally found the size that the little devils screwed right into. As for the fasteners, I can get pretty much the same thing at the local True Value hardware. Thanks for the help. John. John's Jensen Healey Web Page
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| Posted: 03-26-2005 05:53 pm |
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4th Post |
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John Kimbrough Member
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Need a little more advice from those of you who have rebuilt your door panels. I have stripped them down, cut out new panel boards, attached the top u-strip, interior light frame, door lock backing plate, checked fit to the doors, etc. Photo attached. Now I am about to reattach the padded vinyl to the panel board assembly. 1. Should I start by attaching the padded vinyl to the panel using the SS trim strip and push fixes first, and then working both ways from there? Or should I attach the vinyl first to the U-strip at the top of the panel, and then work my way down. 2. What kind of adhesive did you use to attach the vinyl to the panels. I have contact cement but am not sure that is strong enough to hold the vinyl in place. There will be considerable tension in the system. Thanks in advance for the help. John. Attachment: P1010025.jpg (Downloaded 63 times)
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| Posted: 03-26-2005 06:46 pm |
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5th Post |
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Jim Ketcham Member
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John, For what it's worth, I started at the stainless trim piece then stretched my vinyl out from there. That way, I did not have to anticipate the stretch needed for the nice curved look of the upper padded section or try to put holes in for the push fixes at the same time I was stretching the vinyl for a smooth fit. I do not know if it is the best way, but I have done 4 panels now and they look pretty good. I used the 3M spray adhesive I used on the carpets. It holds well enough but still required some clamping for setting. I tried contact cement and had a compatibility problem with my vinyl backing. Jim
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| Posted: 03-27-2005 12:52 am |
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6th Post |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member
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I agree, start at the stainless trim strip at waist level and work up and down from there. It's a lot easier and the only way I know to compress the foam rubber exactly enough to replicate the original curvature. My experience with spray-on adhesives is that even the good (expensive!) ones generally don't hold as well, nor for as long, as the contact cement. For two thirds the price of an aerosol can, I can buy a quart of DAP brand brush-on contact cement and cover 5 to 10 times as much area. If you follow the directions on the can, the stuff is amazingly effective. Usual disclaimers.
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