| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
||||||||||||||
| Wiper arm removal | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 09-24-2016 04:49 am |
|
1st Post |
|
flatlanderep Member 
|
Just purchased VIN 12383, 1973 JH red from PO in Houston . Received car this week and it is in very good condition but lights don't work, temp gauge goes to far right, hot, within 5 seconds of engine start and wiper arms were put on on the wrong side. Going to replace temp sensor and start looking into the light problem, best guess is wiring harness. Only lights operable are brake lights. My initial question is how do I remove the wiper arms? Steve Greenvville, NC
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-24-2016 02:15 pm |
|
2nd Post |
|
Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
|
If you have the original stainless steel ones there is a small metal tab under the post cap, use a small screw driver to push it up and that releases the arm, doesn't take a lot of effort so don't over do it. You might want to hang onto the SS arms, they can;t be gotten anymore. Brett
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-24-2016 03:30 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
dwalls1 Member
|
When dealing with electrical issues, don't overlook ground connections. Just a thought and Good Luck.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-24-2016 10:39 pm |
|
4th Post |
|
flatlanderep Member
|
Brett, that worked and wipers are now correct. Thanks. Next I will work on cleaning the ground connections and where are they located?
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-25-2016 12:43 am |
|
5th Post |
|
Screenplay Member
|
I imagine the grounds dwalls1 refers to are throughout the car. Anywhere the wiring loom grounds to the body of the car, remove the screw and clean the metal parts that make contact. I used a Dremel tool with a small brass brush, but that really isn't necessary; a small piece of fine sandpaper will work also. I suppose I'd pay special attention to the grounding of the specific components that aren't working. It's also been recommended to remove the fuses from the fuse box and clean the metal clips where they make contact with the fuse. Don't forget the ground wire/strap that grounds the engine to the body located on the battery side in the engine compartment. Best of luck and do let us know how it goes. Clinton
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-25-2016 12:47 am |
|
6th Post |
|
Screenplay Member
|
I haven't had the temp gauge problem but I'd start with the sending unit as it's inexpensive and super easy to change out. It's located on the intake manifold between the carbs and can be purchased from Delta Motorsports. There may be a thing about these that I don't know so perhaps somebody with more knowledge could chime in? Clinton
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-26-2016 12:19 am |
|
7th Post |
|
flatlanderep Member
|
When removing temp sensor, do I need to drain radiator fluid or will only a limited amount come out of the block? Thanks
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-26-2016 04:40 am |
|
8th Post |
|
Screenplay Member
|
No need to drain... once you see it you know why. It sits so high up there's no need to do anything except disconnect the wire, unscrew and install the new one. I've always used teflon tape on the threads and never had a problem though others swear by one of the Loctite sealants. Clinton
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-28-2016 03:21 am |
|
9th Post |
|
flatlanderep Member
|
OK, more temp sensor. I removed the temp sensor and prior owner put a yellow plumbers tape around the threads. I found a post from 2006 where the JH guru, Mark Rosenbaun, posted that need to use Permatex and do not use plumbers tape. So I removed tape, put Permatex on threads and re-installed it. No luck, still did not work but I noticed w that just by turning the key without starting, the temp gauge moved to far right. So I disconnected the green wire and still went to to far right by only turning the key. At this point I don't think a new temp sensor will matter. Any ideas? Steve
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-28-2016 03:55 am |
|
10th Post |
|
dwalls1 Member
|
That sounds right. The sender is a resistor that decreases resistance as it gets hotter. Gosh, that sounds too much like I know what I'm talking about. Hopefully some one will jump in to confirm this or report the truth.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-28-2016 06:01 am |
|
11th Post |
|
Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
|
Check for continuity between the sender wire and ground. I think you may have a short.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-28-2016 06:06 am |
|
12th Post |
|
dwalls1 Member
|
Wouldn't that let the smoke out?
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-28-2016 06:09 am |
|
13th Post |
|
dwalls1 Member
|
I guess not. If the wire is grounded that would peg the gauge. The sender must work the opposite of what I said earlier.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 09-28-2016 03:36 pm |
|
14th Post |
|
Jensen Healey Super Moderator
|
I think you were correct. The resistance decreases as it gets hotter until it is zero. It is effectively grounded at this point and the gauge reads maximum.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Current time is 06:44 pm | |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Body & interior stuff > Wiper arm removal | Top |
