| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
||||||||||||||
| Paint Suggestions For An Authentic Look | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 02-06-2013 08:56 pm |
|
1st Post |
|
answerman Member
|
Hey everyone... I searched through and it looked like the last time this was addressed was years ago, so... Ms. Jenavieve will be getting a new paint job in the next couple of months. Though I've done some painting before, I am by no means an expert when it comes to the different types of paint. She's red now (an overspray, close to but not exactly the original color) and I'd like to keep her that way. My goal through the whole restoration project has been to keep her close to original. I'm not militant about everything being exactly the same as the day she rolled out of the factory, but when I have the option I want to get close. As such: what are your recommendations for paint type that resembles the original factory paint? No metal flake or anything... just something that looks more or less like the original finish. I've seen so many different recommendations on other sites that my head is swimming with clearcoat vs enamel vs lacquer vs whatever....
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 02-08-2013 01:01 am |
|
2nd Post |
|
Art DeKneef Member
|
To match the original paint you would need to use a single stage (SS) paint. Probably urethane enamel. This will closely match the depth, texture and gloss. Spraying with base coat/clear coat (BC/CC) can give you a similar color but the depth and gloss will be a little different. Having said that, working with BC/CC is usually easier to work with but requires more work. Depending on the brand of paint generally you apply 2-3 coats of base and then apply 2-3 coats of clear. Depending on the spray gun you use and your skills will determine how smooth the clear goes on and how much polishing you might have to do. Single stage usually requires 2-3 coats also. Again the skills and gun will determine how smooth and how much color sanding and polishing you might need. The difference is if you have an oops or need to do a repair BC/CC is usually more forgiving when blending in the repair. Since you will be using a solid color and want to match the original look I would get a SS urethane enamel. As for brands, check out your local auto paint suppliers and see what they carry and recommend.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 02-08-2013 10:48 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
roland11a Member
|
Over here in England some of the specialists use a modern twin pack paint that gives a very tough but very shiny finish. However to give an authentic finish the whole car is then gone over with a very fine grade of Wet and Dry abrasive paper to slightly dull the paint.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Current time is 08:30 pm | |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Body & interior stuff > Paint Suggestions For An Authentic Look | Top |
