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Ron Earp Member 
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We (Jeff Y, Jeffery R, Robert M, and myself) took the Jensen went out for a track testing session at VIR yesterday for a 2007 shake down. This is the first track session that it has had in about nine months now and we had reasonably positive expectations. It has a new engine and a much better level of prep than it had when it went out on track last June, so we figured we could run around in the Touring Lights club class to learn about the car. First session out we were having some mixture problems with the Strombergs. The car was reluctant to take throttle and pull like it should, but I think we eventually got most of that sorted out. In the second session the car was running pretty well and would pull to our intended shift point for the test day, about 5500 to 6000 RPM. I was able to make a few laps and start to get a feel for the handling of the car at about a 65-75% race pace. I’d say the handling was okay, nothing spectacular. It had fantastic turn in though, I really liked that aspect of the car, but the cornering grip was difficult to feel out. If you turned in too sharply the tail would readily step out and it was definitely a step out that was out of proportion to tire grip; that is to say, it wasn’t tire related. The rear end would also break away under increasing g cornering too, in a manner that was predictable but that happened far too early to be racable. I think the rear was far too “hard” and had trouble getting hooked up. The front was better than the rear, but I didn’t have a good chance to push the front as the rear was limiting me. Anyhow, these are things that can be solved with development and part of the fun of running a car. About the fifth or sixth lap around during the second session we had a fairly heinous failure. I came out of Oak Tree, a sharp right hander, and started down the 4000’ straight. There were no other cars around for about half a mile or so. At about 70mph and just a little ways down the straight, I heard a tremendous BANG!!!!! There was dirt (what I thought was dirt at the time) and debris flying all around the car with a lot of vibrations coursing through the chassis. There were various noises clanking and clunking so I figured maybe it’d be a good time to pull off track. I reached down to hit my cockpit electrical kill switch but it wasn’t there. A quick glance revealed that most of the drive tunnel that my kill switch and accusump were mounted to wasn’t there either, and my gear shift was poking out of the tunnel at a really strange angle. I managed to turn off all the switches on my electrical panel and get the car pointed left of track. As soon as the car rolled across the track curbing I was up and out, it was still rolling a bit as I jumped from the cage (open top cars quick to get out of, a good thing!!!!). The car was leaking fluids out of three places and I could hear a heavy flow of liquid splashing on the ground that turned out to be fuel from the broken pump and line system. The track was littered with pieces of metal, driveshaft, and exhaust system. I was a bit shaken up, no doubt. To make a long story short it appears that the driveshaft broke. When it broke the car was moving and it was securely bolted to the differential, so of course it had to rotate. It beat the hell out of the transmission tunnel, broke the cross bar loop, and sheared off the exhaust system while turning itself into a 3” diameter metal facsimile of a snake. The engine was spinning at about 5000 RPM when this happened so of course the transmission was being turned until I could shut off the engine. The output yoke of the transmission is a heavy u joint affair and it just about cut the center console in half while taking scattering shards of metal all through the cockpit. The accusump got deformed and vented oil making a nice shower. Electrical switch was broken, and my MSD timing control was reduced in size by about a third. Tunnel is trashed and the carnage goes all the way back to the rear deck. Once we got to looking underneath the car we could see that the transmission is missing some casing and the differential isn’t being a differential any more. The transmission is pulled away from the bell housing about an eighth of an inch, so bad things are going on there. The diff sounds like a box of rocks when turned and input flange wobbles around in a non-circular way. Shifter structure is mostly gone, as is the transmission output flange, and some other bits back there. Good news though – due to my last “bad” on track experience I was very protective of the motor! I don’t remember much about the bang and what happened right after, but I distinctly remember seeing 75psi on the oil pressure gauge as I flipped the power to the MSD off – so I’m sure the motor is okay! I’ve learned a lot from this recent experience but need to think about what I’ve learned before I really know what my next move is going to be. I know I am very fortunate to have gotten out of this deal without a serious injury. Safe to say you won’t see the Jensen on track in the very near future though, unfortunately.      |
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jcdean Member
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Holy Cow! Looks like a grenade went off under the car. You sir, are a fortunate man. Do you think that welded spider came apart on you? Would love to hear how this turns out. Probably take you a bit to get it sorted out on just what happened, but for now I am very grateful you are OK. I see a driveshaft hoop in your future. Joey |
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Ron Earp Member
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It actually had the metal plate that bolts across the tranny tunnel - but it was blown out and not found. While not a drive shaft loop it is stout and we figured might do the job, it didn't. No, the welded spider gears didn't have anything to do with this. When those let go, which is really rare, it just turns the differential open and generally breaks it, but that is about it. They still turn okay. We're not sure what caused this mess but I think it is either the transmission locking up which preciptated the driveshaft failure, or the driveshaft itself. I think it was the driveshaft but can't be sure at this point. This driveshaft came with the transmission I bought from CA a couple years ago. I don't know the origin, but driveshafts that mate a five speed to a four speed rear end must be fabricated for the job since that wasn't a factory part or combination. I imagine this one was just not up to the job. Ron Last edited on 02-18-2007 02:58 pm by Ron Earp |
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Judson Manning Member 
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Again Ron, I'd like to convey my most sincere condolences. I've been there with my JH in Solo I, and the fact is we're forced to do all the missionary work the 240Z and Miata guys don't have to do. Had it been just one of the u-joints snapping, the 'anti-pole-vault' plate probably would have been enough. The shaft itself failing points to one end locking, and knowing the 5sp can be fragile, my money is on a transmission failure. Of course the irony here is the one-piece drive-shaft you have is supposed to be more reliable than the original two-piece shaft. Even if your shaft was 'custom' to fit the early 'small' 4sp differential flange (late 4sp have the 'bigger' 5sp flange), I would think the failure would have been at the flange or the u-joint. There was no way you could have seen this coming, but the most important thing is you are OK! |
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Ron Earp Member
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Thanks Judson, much appreciated. I've got some more pictures I'll get up later in the week, and, we do have a video of the JH running around on track through NASCAR bend at VIR. I should have posted this in the transmission area because I think you are correct in that it might be a tranny failure. Until we get it off the trailer and really look it over I won't know, and I'm not that inclined to look at it just right now.... R |
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edward_davis Member 
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Yowza! I'm glad you're OK, too! Fixing the car is part of the fun, after all, but fixing yourself really shouldn't have to be part of the game. I'll be curious to hear how it all turns out. I'm sure we're all looking forward to seeing the video of her flying high before the driveshaft failure, too. Edward |
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Joel Member
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Ron - Glad you are ok! Damn. I see you're looking for a tranny from another post. I have a 5spd with rear end and i think the drive shaft as well. I wasn't really looking to sell it (it's always good to have spares!) but if you're looking for one let me know - I might be persuaded. Joel |
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Ron Earp Member
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Excellent Joel, PM sent. My buddy at the track took some video and she's out there, but I never got time to hook up in car. I'll get the video from Jeff and see if I can upload it. Looks cool, and it is on the same lap the explosion took place as well. R |
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Joel Member
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As an aside - from you pics it looks like where the tranny tunnel meets the rear ledge you might have had some welding done. I noticed on my car that there is a small 'tear' in the same place. I was going to weld it and then put a 'T' shaped piece of 1/8" steel over it and weld that on too. Sorry for the thread hijack! Got your PM - let me 'tink about it a bit and get back to you. I'm still looking for the other 1/2 of the air intake box! |
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Ron Earp Member
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Nah, there wasn't any welding done or anything funny there BEFORE the accident - but afterwards it has that big crease and valley there. I think that is from the upper links on the differential pulling downward on the chassis because they mount right about there in the car. One thing I didn't know about until yesterday in looking at the car on the trailer is that the driver's side is bulged out too against the seat. The driveshaft tried to come out that side too and there is a big bulge all the way from the shifter area to the end of the tunnel, about a 4 inch outward protrusion. What a mess. All of that will have to be cut out of a donor car and welded into this car. Or, made from sheet steel, one or the other. Ron |
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Jim DeClerck Member 
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Ron, Looking at the photo from the front of the car I can see what appear to be inlets for brake cooling ducts under the front bumper. Did I get that right? Also there doesn't seem to be an air dam fitted under the front end. If that's correct, is it because of the rules regarding modifications or is it something that is not really needed to control lift at high speed? I have considered fitting one to my road car but now I'm hesitating. I had some body restoration done on my car, including new front floors. The shop owner recommended welding on a reinforcing plate to solidly connect the top rear of the tunnel to the rear shelf. He said it's common for that joint to crack if not reinforced. Sorry about the driveline failure and I hope it can be sorted out without too much grief. Lucky you, to be able to walk away from that one. Best wishes for a speedy recovery of #38 and a safer outing next time. |
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Ron Earp Member
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Yes, each front rotor has a two duct inlet that goes to two 3" tubes. One tube goes to the rotor and has a hat around the rotor (off in the picture for work) and the other goes directly to the caliper itself. The car will have a spolier, if it ever races, but I do not think you need one for road use. A road car would have many other things that would affect handling that could be worked on first before I'd worry too much about lift. If fact, at road car speeds you should not experience any lift of any effect. I didn't notice any at about 110-115, which is is fast as this car has gone at Roebling Road (test day from last year, not a race). Judson has more experience this than I, but I think he'll agree. I don't think it is needed from a lift standpoint on the race car either, but I do think it will be needed to clean up the airflow on an otherwise very aero dirty car. Thanks for the wishes, I hope to do better next time out!  Last edited on 02-21-2007 01:44 am by Ron Earp |
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Jim DeClerck Member
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Ron, Thanks for the great photo of the brake cooling set-up. Regarding the spoiler, should I presume that the value of cleaning up the aerodynamics is a resulting reduction of aerodynamic drag and therefore a reduction in the power (and fuel) required to propel the car at higher speeds, say above 60 mph? |
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Ron Earp Member
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Sure, if you clean it up it'll definitely help with drag, fuel consumption, and will help acceleration some tiny amount. Drag is proportional to the square of speed as far as I remember. But, I had a nifty chart of where drag got to be an issue with a fairly dirty test car and for those cruising under 65-70mph it isnt such a big deal as far as horsepower consumed. But, push the speeds into the 90-100mph range it certainly is an issue on a race car where everyone is using aero mods to get a tiny edge. Add to the fact we have a very dirty convertible compared to the coupes in the class and we'll need all we can get. Some of the tracks we're spending (or will have to if we're going competitive) a fair amount of time in the 115-135mph range. The average speed around the track might only be around 80mph, but there is a lot below, and a lot above that average. Also planned for the car was ducting behind the radiator to direct air out and help reduce drag (actually very important), various aero pieces to seal cracks etc. in the front end, an under tray, and a front splitter/spoiler. You'll notice the windshield angle is already raked back quite a bit more than a standard Jensen Healey. In that picture the car is much higher than it ended up in final form with more suspension changes.  Last edited on 02-21-2007 09:19 pm by Ron Earp |
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edward_davis Member
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So I suppose that with the windscreen raked back, you can't fit a hardtop to clean up the aero profile of the car? I know from my personal experience (but with no numbers to back it up) that my JH drives much better on the freeway with the hardtop on than with the top down or with the soft top up. Looking at the windscreen and roll-cage setup you have, though, I don't think you could modify a hardtop to fit. I suppose you could always make an aluminum tonneau, though. Edward |
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Ron Earp Member
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We were futzing with the hard top at Judson's place. If I redo the cage for a hard top, which would be absolutely necessary, we can make a hard top fit pretty easily. The window can go back up, or we can cut the bottom off the top to squeeze her on there. I'd probably go the latter route if I went to the trouble to squeeze every last bit of advantage out. Aero is important and a hard top would help out I think. Too bad I didn't think about that two years ago! Ron |
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LambandAndy Member 
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Ron, Since you seem to be travelling from NC to Atlanta, I know where there are two JH's sitting on the side of the road (for well over a year that I know of) near Toccoa, GA (yes, they are still there). One is a MK 2 that has no engine/gearbox that the guy might sell reasonably if you need donor parts. I can give you the guy's name and number but I will no longer deal with him. Andy. Attachment: 100_2216w.jpg (Downloaded 391 times) |
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Ron Earp Member
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Thanks Andy, I'll bear it in mind. I think the fellow that posted one in NC must have disappeared off the board. Were those two cars up for sale for some large sum of money in the last couple of years? I swear I saw a similar picture way back. Sounds like he wants too much money for them. A nice yellow JH with five speed that was running, good hard top, etc. just sold for $4500 in the NW, so those two heaps he has there aren't worth too much at all. Ron |
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smcmanus Member 
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J-H Christ! Thank God or the deity of choice that you are OK! That is quite the malfunction. Peace be with you Steve |
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Ron Earp Member
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That is what I thought too!!!! Right now the car is on ice as the racing season has started and I've got to get my race on - thus I'm racing out 260Z. This 260Z has been a race car since 1990 and is well developed, and hence fast and drivable and most importantly does not have a tendancy to try and kill the owner! Once I get my garage built I'll put the Jensen back out and repair the damage and make sure it is track worthy. I'll have another go at it, but it'll be a few months before I start to rebuild it. I do know this - it'll probably go back together with a 4 speed! So I am going to need to find one of those to purchase, and I do need a good 4 speed rear end. Feel free to email me if you've got some of this for sale. The driveshaft I'm going to have made and plan to have a high dollar/strong drive shaft made too - don't want to see anything like that again. Ron |
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pbahr Member 
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Hi Ron, Just getting to look at the various JH posts and saw the dreadful results of your day at VIR. Sorry for your troubles. For agressive driving of a JH, I recommend doing the things that I did when I put YELODOG together, to protect my hardware, legs and feet including: 1 - Driveshaft Safety Hoop. All dragsters/race cars use them, so they are easy to get. They control motion in all directions if the front universal lets go. Saves my right thigh from the chain saw action on the tunnel that you experienced. Your tunnel damage is not the first that I've seen on a JH. Same thing happened to a guy in CT about 15 yrs ago. 2 - Clutch Scatter Shield. A thick steel plate welded to the chassis, radially out from where the clutch is. Good foot and ankle protection if the clutch blows up. 3 - Special design driveshaft with stronger universals, lighter and stronger tube. All balanced to 7000 rpm. I did this for both 4spd and 5spd tranny (one piece driveshaft for the 5spd). 4 - Automatic Fuel pump cutoff switch that shuts off the pump if there is severe shock to the chassis, such as tire wall, tree, armco iron, rollover etc. Lots of production cars have these. I got one that is stock in a Town Car. Don't know if it would have activated with your failure. Fortunatly, I have had no failures to test these features, but they do give me lots of confidence during track events............... From your analysis of the failure, if the tunnel damage was a result of the universal on the tranny, of course, the hoop would not have helped. Good luck on the repairs, Pete |
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Ron Earp Member
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pbahr wrote: Hi Ron, Hey, thanks for the wishes and suggestions. Unfortunately, under SCCA Improved Touring rules the best two would be illegal - driveshaft loops cannot be added and the driveshaft has to be stock. I have a feeling the driveshaft sheared based on what the end looked like. We still don't know what actually caused the failure since I was frustrated and we parked the car. I've been enjoying my 260Z since then and getting some race time in. But, we'll get her back out late this year and have a look and maybe repair her to race. R |
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pbahr Member
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Yo, I'm not an SCCA guy, but it really seems very strange to me that they will not allow a strictly SAFETY item like a HOOP. Same comment for stronger Driveshaft. Neither change will give you any speed/handling advantage during a race, so what's the gripe? BTW:
Guess there are lots of reasons that I'm not in the SCCA, but on top of the list is stupid rules. Safety first ! Pete |
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Ron Earp Member
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It is odd. Improved Touring will not allow loops, that much is clear. But I will use one in the future no matter what. Someone would have to protest me to make an issue of it and that won't happen. On the driveshafts the JH is an odd bird. I can use a 5 speed tranny in IT. I can use a 4 speed tranny in IT. But the JH is the only car I know of classed in IT on the same spec lines that if you used a five or four speed tranny then your driveshaft would change. Part of that is due to the fact that the JH is one of the few cars that switched in the model year/platform. The same driveshaft won't fit each and the rules don't address the specific clause I have - use of the 5 speed tranny with the more advantagous 4 speed rear end. Rear gears are free, but the best way to get the 3.7X was with a four speed. That is with a different part. In short, I was breaking the rules by using the 5sp/4sp rear diff shaft that someone made that I used. And it broke. Anyhow, I don't think the car would be a threat to the AARC championship for a number of reasons, although I think they can/could/do race well. Next time - starting out I'll use a four speed with a four speed rear end and four speed drive shaft. IF, and big if, it looks competitive in ITS, then I'll use a five speed with the proper ratios etc. in the rear and a five speed driveshaft. Those are the rules. While the SCCA has lots of odd situtations and rules, the wheel to wheel racing and competition is the best in the amatuer racing segments. NASA is cool too, but with these sorts of cars there is little to no competition. Beyond those two there is little in the way of W2W racing. Ron Last edited on 05-04-2007 03:50 am by Ron Earp |
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pbahr Member
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Like I said, too many rules. I would just cheat, and never use a two piece Driveshaft. I would cheat on the strength of the Universal joints, and the weight/strength of the tube as well. Who's gonna know? We're talking safety here. Good for you, using the Hoop. BTW, you're not the first on to have his Tunnel chopped up. When I was building YELODOG engine, I was fortunate to get a pix from a guy in CT that had a hot engine, which caused the front Universal failure. He, also, was lucky that his leg wasn't cut to shreds............. That told me to put in all the safety stuff I could. So, how do you like the handling and stability of the JH at 100 mph+ ? Not the same good feeling I get with my 911 of the same vintage, for sure. If you want to experience some real racing on the edge, try Targa Newfoundland. Sure beats any track I've ever been on. Not W2W, but there is passing. Lots more dangerous though. Did it in '04 (JH team) & '05, / '06 driving a Neon. What a trip ! Pix is '05 - we were back in the race the next morning, with new windshield and radiator. Blew engine two days later though = DNF. Pete Attachment: Shiny side down5 lite.jpg (Downloaded 209 times) |
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Ron Earp Member
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That Targa Newfoundland race is awesome. One of the fellows on my Gt40 forum drives in it and made a post about it, see if I can find the name. If I race the JH I will use a one piece driveshaft as well. Actually, my five speed was a one piece to adapt to that four speed rear. And I'll do it again, but with a piece that I have made and I know is good. This one was of unknown origin. So, to correct I'll start with a strong four speed and single piece, and if the car is competitive but needs better gearing, I'll go back five speed but with that one piece. I agree on the stability. I only ever got to drive the JH at speed at one track, maybe at 95-105 mph, and it was nothing like my Z car at that speed. Of course, the JH has not had development, so one must be fair. Hate to hear you toasted the Neon engine, but you do the crime, you do the time! I know how you feel - I just holed two pistons in my Z motor and it is out for rebuild. 7600 RPM over revs for extended periods are not a good thing with it. R |
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pbahr Member
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Ron, There's still time to sign up forTarga. What's holding you back??????? No, I don't want to be unfair about the JH. I'm sure that I could improve the stability with careful attention to alignment and suspension bits. Neon engine let go in '05. I had Promar build up a new one for me with added good stuff in head and bottom end - they know what they're doing and did a nice job. It ran really strong in '06. Blowing engines and wrecking cars is a given in this sport. That's one of the reasons I won't drive YELODOG in Targa. The Neon is a throw-away ! Pete |
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Ron Earp Member
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It has been quite a while since I've posted here about the Jensen Healey race car. Since the last outing in the car she has been sitting in a storage shed resting. And I've been doing a lot of racing with my 260Z and getting somewhat competitive in it, seat time is king. In doing so I've learned a lot about racing, driving, building cars, and developing cars. One thing I've learned is while I like the Jensen it was probably a fools folly to think that a JH could be brought out in such as competitive class, Improved Touring S, in a strong region, the Southeast, and get the car racable and competitive with class staples like the Z cars, RX7s, 325s, and cars that have had years of racing and development. IT cars nowadays have developed far beyond the Prod classes of the past and are faster than they have any right to be. At any rate, I've decided that I need to be practical and objective about my racing goals and efforts. To that end, I'll be parting out the ITS Jensen project and selling it. I don't think the package as a whole will bring any buyers, but I will be selling parts from it over the coming months. I have a new garage I'll be moving the car to and dismantling it. If anyone is interested in parts let me know. The engine is fresh and strong, only a couple of hours on it since Judson built it and it is in good order. Some parts, like the driveshaft and rear end, are toast, but everything else is okay. Once the major components are sold the tub will be left and someone can have it for best offer, or, it can be sent to the crusher. If anyone would want the entire car we can talk - it does have a SCCA ITS logbook therefore is a race legal car. Tub repairs would get it back to race worthy condition, but I just don't have the heart for the project. The car also has a title if someone were inclined to put it on the street. If interested you can email me at rlearp@gt40s.com. Hate to pull the plug on the project with it being close to completion, but sometimes you have to do what you need to do and move on. Take care, Ron |
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pbahr Member
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Well, the JH community will be very dissapointed that your efforts are being terminated. We were all excited about the possibility of your JH running in a competitive race series. Guess we'll all have to wait till someone enters in vintage racing in a few years. Good luck with your "Z"........ YELODOG |
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Ron Earp Member
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I think the JH could probably compete in IT, but it'd need to be moved into ITA. In ITA the cars have less power and it is almost 100% 2L four bangers and under. ITS is simply too strong of a playing field and the cars have too much power for the JH. About 140-150 rear wheel hp is about the best I could see the JH doing, and even that might be a serious stretch since modern 2L four bangers do that with higher compression, modern EFI, better head design, and precise mixture control - all of which the JH is missing. ITS cars are generally running around 165-180 rear wheel hp at only a couple hundred pounds heavier than the JH with IRS to boot. My own 260Z is up to around 168 rear wheel hp and the spec weight is 2480 lbs, plus, it makes over 160 ft lbs of torque at the wheel which the JH can't match on displacement. As far as the Z goes it has been a great car to get me seat time over the last year and I've run probably ~20 races in it, great fun. Gotten some decent finishes with it, as high as 3rd and mostly mid-pack which I think is good for my level of experience. But it isn't where I want to "be" in racing either. I'm in the procees of picking a modern car for IT racing, something made in the last 10 years or so, to reap the benefits of modern braking and EFI - will definitely lighten that workload in the paddock. Older cars take a lot of work to keep on track, while rewarding, it is tiring - especially as the driver gets older too.... Best, Ron Last edited on 05-28-2008 12:43 pm by Ron Earp |
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pbahr Member
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Ron, I've got a great '98 Dodge Neon ACR for sale. It is a proven race winner in Showroom Stock a few years ago, and won I won Class in Targa Newfoundland in '06 http://img186.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=21861_918GanderNorthStage_122_364lo.jpg . Has new engine, PROFESSIONALLY rebuilt.......... If you want to do rally, it has all the computers, skid plate etc. as well. Two Schroth 5-point, 4 extra Mopar performance wheels, spares....... Pete Bahr |
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Ron Earp Member
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Sorry, not much of a rally guy but I know that is lots of fun. But I do like that road race wheel to wheel mayhem. Here is one of this past weekend's races from in car. In part three I managed to get to third place, but, lost it and ended up 4th. Lots o fun though! Part One http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5IyVUqY7l4 Part Two http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Gt4ka-wDwY Part Three http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMqX0WZJP18 |
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pbahr Member
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Looks like a lot of fun. Great videos. I'm not promoting the Neon as a rally car. It's not set up for gravel. It's a road race car - tarmac, not dirt and gravel. Actually, Newfoundland is really a race, with rally components. You only get points if you are the fastest. Pete |
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Ron Earp Member
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Ron Earp wrote:
Just to be clear with this, if folks are interested in some parts from the racer email me at rlearp@gt40s.com. Thanks, Ron |
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