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| Another Jensen-Healey just popped up on BaT | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 03-24-2021 05:45 pm |
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1st Post |
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noomg Member
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It's pretty clean with a nice paint and interior combo, a late model with Dellortos, and a lot of original things like door speakers. It'll be interesting to see what this one brings, especially following so closely on the heels of the last one. It's currently at $3900, I don't think that's going to get the job done.
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| Posted: 03-26-2021 04:34 pm |
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2nd Post |
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noomg Member
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The bid is now $6500 with 4 days to go. It 'll be interesting to see if this one gets the same money as the white 4sp, which was also a clean machine. What I found baffling is on both of these cars the PO glued the floormats down, what were they thinking! Seriously, gluing down floormats on British convertibles in general and the J/H, with it's history of corroded floor boards, in particular is a really bad idea. Even if you don't get caught in the rain with you're top down, ragtops still leak. When this happens you have to open up the car, pull up the carpeting and dry everything out if you want to avoid corrosion. I think the reason the J/H is famed for rotten floor boards were those damned rubber floormats. While they were really nice HD floormats, the problem was they trapped water underneath them which could sit on the floorboards for months unless you pulled everything out to dry which obviously most people unfortunately didn't.
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| Posted: 03-31-2021 04:12 pm |
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3rd Post |
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noomg Member
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It sold for $11,750, considering the earlier 4sp netted $15,250 I'd say this buyer got a very good deal. While prices do seem to be on the rise, at $10,000 to $15,000 for a Jensen-Healey in excellent condition it's still an excellent value when you consider what you have to pay for anything else in it's class. You'll have to pay that much for a Spitfire!
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| Posted: 04-02-2021 08:45 am |
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4th Post |
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discogodfather Member 
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Looked like a nice car, I thought it's body was a little better than the previous car that went for 15. I think the guy didn't do the comp test right, because 100 psi on all cylinders is too low. I think he forgot to hold the throttle bodies open. Might have hurt the price.
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| Posted: 04-02-2021 06:40 pm |
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5th Post |
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noomg Member
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Both were nice cars, I think some just prefer the metal bumper cars, which could also account for the price difference. Personally I prefer the green one, 5sp and color combination, the rubber bumpers don't bother me. You're probably right about the test being done improperly, the fact that the readings are all right together tells me this motor is in good shape.
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| Posted: 04-12-2021 01:43 pm |
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6th Post |
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Jh092 Member
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I purchased the green car on BaT. When I got the car home, it was as good as in the photos and description. I am in the process of replacing the timing belt and cleaning up a previous owners rework of the wiring harness and it will be good to go.
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| Posted: 04-12-2021 04:10 pm |
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7th Post |
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noomg Member
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Jh092, Congrats on your acquisition. From what I could see it looks like you got a solid car for good price. It doesn't even look like the floorboards have been replaced, don't see that very often, even in CA. Sounds like you're off to a good start by replacing the timing belt, it's really cheap insurance. I'd be sure to note the mileage and date. It's up to you as to interval change, I do mine every two years or 12,000mi which ever comes first. I recently replaced my wiring harness, hopefully you won't have to go that far to correct the PO's modifications. Keep us updated on how things are going and any questions you might have, we've got some really knowledgeable dudes on this board.
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| Posted: 04-12-2021 05:06 pm |
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8th Post |
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Jh092 Member
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I do have a question. Somewhere along the line a dash cover was installed and the VIN number is not visible. Where is the VIN located? Could it be under the cover or was it a plate closer to the windshield like on my Europa? I need it visible for a state inspection. If under the cover, can the cover be removed or will i destroy it and need to buy a new one?
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| Posted: 04-12-2021 06:28 pm |
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9th Post |
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redracer Member
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the very earl ones had a metal plate with nthe number stamped in, located on the passenger side engine bay rail. Then they moved this plate to the driver's side rail, and finally, they put it in the driver's front side seat rail near the tm. tunnel(which shpould be your car based on the rubber bumpers). Also, the later cars had that 5 digit # stamped into the driver's side frame rail itself, just below the front part of the brake pressure differential switch. I would imagine the previous owner left the one on the dash, which is likely below your coverall one. And of course, the aluminum plates on the radiator cowl and the driver side door jam
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| Posted: 04-12-2021 08:37 pm |
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10th Post |
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discogodfather Member
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My 73 is on the passenger side engine bay rail, stamped on a welded plate. It's only a 5 digit number, which makes the local DMV go crazy for some reason. It's not really a "VIN", I don't know what year they went to a standard VIN number.
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| Posted: 04-12-2021 11:55 pm |
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11th Post |
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redracer Member
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Chris: you have a VERY EARLY J-H. The 5 digit # for the U.S. would have 1110- before the 5 digits on your plate. You should have the same # on the aluminum radiator and door jam plates.
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| Posted: 04-13-2021 02:20 am |
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12th Post |
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noomg Member
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Jh092, If you're talking about an aftermarket plastic dash cap that covers the original dash you may be able to trim it back to expose the VIN split pinned to the dash. On mine the VIN plate is located 1" above the bottom windshield frame and about 9 1/2" from the left side frame.
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| Posted: 04-13-2021 02:46 am |
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13th Post |
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Jh092 Member
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Noomg, Thats the vin number i need to get exposed. That helps me locate where it should be located. Any photos of the plate relative to the windshield. The alumnum plates are installed and I'm still looking for the stamped chassis number. That`s later this week. The timing belt is first.
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| Posted: 04-13-2021 02:46 am |
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14th Post |
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Jh092 Member
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Noomg, Thats the vin number i need to get exposed. That helps me locate where it should be located. Any photos of the plate relative to the windshield. The alumnum plates are installed and I'm still looking for the stamped chassis number. That`s later this week. The timing belt is first.
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| Posted: 04-13-2021 02:55 am |
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15th Post |
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redracer Member
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If the pictures were correct, it looks like the blue timing belt was installed, which does NOT stretch. Contact the previous owner to se when it was installed ,as the blue belts(I recently did a follow up on them after Tim Engel's original write up; use the SEARCH box at the top) will last MUCH longer than the origianl black ones congratulations on what seems to be a good car, bruce
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| Posted: 04-13-2021 02:57 am |
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16th Post |
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noomg Member
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Jh092 Those measurements are for the bottom and left end of the VIN plate.
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| Posted: 04-13-2021 05:19 pm |
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17th Post |
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Mondial1 Member 
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never paid much attention to the VIN# on my old gal, she is showing 11001, on the stamp pad. I know she is an early model, but any idea how early as far as the US models go? Attachment: vin pic.jpg (Downloaded 152 times)
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| Posted: 04-13-2021 05:35 pm |
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18th Post |
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redracer Member
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The books Richard Calver put together might have that info in it. I met a man from Louisiana in 1989 at the first Jensen National in Lake Tahoe. He said his was the earliest imported to the U.S; it was yellow and supposedly a '72, which he said was not supposed to be allowed in yet. Don't know how true that is , but good luck searching.
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| Posted: 04-14-2021 03:40 pm |
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19th Post |
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noomg Member
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Bruce, Considering how problematic Brit cars were in general at their launch, I'd say having a first one is at best a dubious honor.
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| Posted: 04-14-2021 06:19 pm |
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20th Post |
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redracer Member
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noomg: I agree with you, but he did drive it there(i.e.-not trailered).. Have no idea what happened to him or the car
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