View single post by Triplesn8s
 Posted: 10-07-2008 05:30 am
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Triplesn8s

 

Joined: 04-27-2007
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Posts: 25
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Hi Guys,

I would like to sell it all as one lot for ease of disposal. Ebay is a
hassle that sometimes is not worth the trouble but better prices can be
achieved. I would really like to see someone finish what I started.
While I don’t have the time to go roadracing, I have a '78 TR8 that
needs a motor and A-X setup and a 911 resto in the wings. At least I can
get in the few hours for an A-X from time to time.   Best way to reach me is via the Jensen List at British Steel - jensen-cars@british-steel.org

Photos of most of it are at

http://4tekincorporated.smugmug.com/gallery/6164692_Ktjhq#P-1-16

The only parts listed here I would consider keeping are the 40mm Webers
but not the manifold. There may be more but I can’t get to it to tally
it till this stuff moves.

This car is a race car only project with the dirtiest & most difficult
work done. It started as a drivable street car that I decided to go EP
racing with. The body shell was very solid and rust free except for
typical JH floors. I scraped all off all the undercoating and sealer
which is a hot nasty job. I cut out the floors and welded in some
prototype floors I got from Delta that didn’t fit all that well but well
enough for a race car and welded from above and below. There are a
couple of small patches required in the footwell where the fit wasn’t
perfect. It also had the typical JH tunnel stress crack. The rear
bulkhead, tunnel, floor pan, and suspension pickup points were heavily
reinforced with new steel. These cars need significant ballast for EP
anyway so adding the weight to the rear is a positive.

The cage is of the appropriate SCCA EP legal seamless tubing (1.5 x .090
I think) and design per the GCR. It is composed of three main hoops one
at the cowl in the engine compartment, one at the dash and the main at
the rear. The hoops are very well fitted to the body shell and contact
it just before they roll towards the center. They are tacked to the body
at this point. The side tubes and top braces are fit to the hoops so
well they hold their place by friction without being tacked. I have even
moved the shell without the tubes falling out. This cage is wide & tight
and when welded will be very stiff. There are still a few tubes to be
added but what is left to do is simple triangulation and stringers to
the rails/crossmember in the engine compartment. I will provide enough
tubing to complete the cage.

Engine: Is a refresh of an original 26,000 mile unit from a car I parted
due to sitting outside & rust. All perishables replaced, bearings, rings
etc. The engine parts receipts I have total over $1100 in 2001 dollars.
I might have installed a windage tray but might not have. Supplemented
block venting and oil pump passage work was done. There was no real wear
to the bores and they had plenty of crosshatch but were lightly flex
honed for the new rings. One cylinder had a rust ring from sitting and
that cylinder was replaced by a local shop with a new one I purchased.
An in-distributor electronic ignition (“Ignitor”) was installed with a
new vacuum advance unit and static timed. The valves were carefully
shimmed to allow for break in. The head was in such good shape the valve
seats did not need cut, no sense in unnecessarily removing material from
seats in heads like these. The head has not been cut. 40mm Webers were
gone through in detail replacing all perishables and the floats (I
think). The stock header was Jet-Hot coated. When I completed it 3 years
or so ago it is absolutely ready to prime and fire. It has been on a
stand in my basement since.

This is a stock motor I intended to use on-track for initial car and
suspension setup as it is stock, you are not going to win any races with
it but it would be great for dialing in the car and drivers schools. BTW
before this motor I have built Triumph 1500, Triumph 2000-6 (Ported,
valvetrain revised, bumped & cammed), Datsun L16, Datsun U-20 (race
spec), Covair flat 6 (ITS race spec), BMW E21 2.3- 6 motors and am
currently working on a Rover V8 and Porsche 911 2.4 (neither stock of
course). Apparently I don’t like to do the same motor twice…

Including:

4 New Huffaker fenders never installed

4 Serviceable Huffaker fender molds

Delta swaybars and springs w/ 3 used Spax shocks (I scrapped a leaker)

5-speed trans

Spare original short block w/ pistons, rods, crank & ancillaries from car

Spare head original from car –cut and probably not good for much without
a lot of work.

Spare short block minus one liner (I think)

Spare head dirty but otherwise looks good and uncut

4 spare cam towers w/ cams

4 spare valve covers

Crank – needs chromed & ground to be usable or scrap it. (I bought this
unseen & got screwed)

3 spare rods and some ancillaries & covers

2 flywheels

Oil cooler with hoses

Radiator

Driveshaft

Clutch disc and pressure plate

All suspension except for rear axle which is not suitable for racing so
I scrapped it.

Front crossmember

Steel hood and trunk lid

Good front bumper ( was going to have a mold pulled from it)

About 10-12 maybe 15 Racing Tires Goodyear 'Sports Car Special' 23 x 9 x
15 (they are everywhere)

One box with new radiator hoses, gaskets, water pump rebuild kit, head
gasket, starter wiring harness, motor mounts etc.

One box with misc head hardware like buckets, shims etc.

There may be another box or two buried behind the tires I just can’t get to.

If someone buys the whole lot I may sell them the new blank lug mount
AP-Lockheed EP SCCA Legal ‘TR8 Factory Rally Calipers’ (monoblock
forged) with documentation I bought in ’02 ish. But be advised these
were big bucks in 2002 and I don’t need to sell them, I have two TR8’s
they will go on quite nicely.

Please, no time wasting $500 offers. I have shipped motors across
country before, it’s not that tough. Thank you for your consideration. I
am bummed it is not going to work out. I have been lurking on the Jensen
list for 10 years or more, it is a good one.

Bill