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| Joined: | 05-01-2005 |
| Location: | Minneapolis, Minnesota USA |
| Posts: | 575 |
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The little wire circlip that serves as an abutment for the pulley is not very strong, and is easily overcome. Torquing the pulley's retaining bolt is like trying to clamp something securely against a marshmallow. Even if you do manage to tighten the pulley in place, you can't count on it remaining secure long term.
A little medium strength blue Threadlocker will suffice. Rub a little on the shaft, avoiding the keyway, and wipe most off. Leave just a little to ensure that the surface is fully wetted out/ rubbed in... ie, it's 'primed'. Then apply a more liberal smear of Loctite in the pulley bore, again avoiding the keyway.
This way, when the pulley is pushed on, the majority of the excess Loctite will be pushed out the front of the bore where it can be easily wiped off (don't let any get into the bolt hole). The little bit that does ooze out on the back side of the pulley should also be thoroughly wiped off. What you DO NOT WANT is any excess Loctite migrating to the lip seal that is right behind the pulley, where the shaft enters the auxiliary housing.
Next time the pulley comes off, heat will be required to kill the Loctite. In order to protect the lip seal from torch flame or heat gun, first wrap a wet rag around the shaft between the pulley and seal, covering the face of the seal. Then apply the torch/ heat gun from behind the pulley, aiming forward at the hub. All excess flame/ heat blast goes forward, NOT back at the seal.
Getting back to the job on hand...
Install a small (3") 3-jaw puller on the pulley. Have the jaws installed so the hooks face inward. Slip the jaws through the 'spoke holes' and directly grab the hub. Obviously, on older pulleys with solid center webs, you'll have no choice other than to grab the outside rim. But the pulley is aluminum, and pulling too hard on the rim can result in the spokes or center web cracking/ breaking. If your pulley has spoke holes, take advantage of the opportunity to pull directly on the hub.
DO NOT run the puller's jack-screw directly against the end of the auxiliary shaft, or you risk messing up the threaded hole, and you'll never get the bolt started again. After removing the large, thick washer, either replace the bolt, or place a "little smaller than shaft-sized", 1/4" drive socket between the end of the shaft and the jack-screw... ie, give the jack-screw something other than the shaft to bear against.
Start by cranking the puller up fairly tight, but not in 'full puller mode'... don't go all "Mongo" on it. Then apply heat to the hub. As it gets hot (~235 F) watch the joint line between the shaft and pulley bore. When you see a little bubbling there, the Loctite is soft/ boiling, so you can get serious with the puller.
The two cam sprockets and the crank sprocket should be installed with Anti-Seize in their bores, NOT Loctite. They have large shoulders to bear against, so properly torqued, they won't loosen up. Only the auxiliary pulley gets blue, medium strength Loctite.
Define "Mongo".
In the movie "Blazing Saddles", Mongo was the big dumb guy (played by Alex Karras) who dropped a horse with one punch. "Mongo strong like bull !!". Mongo also not too bright. Don't go all Mongo with the puller on the aluminum sprocket.
Regards,
Tim Engel
Last edited on 04-20-2020 08:16 pm by Esprit2