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| Joined: | 09-18-2015 |
| Location: | Fullerton, California USA |
| Posts: | 149 |
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Answerman- What led me to finally question the voltage stabilizer was when I measured the block temperature with an IR thermometer, and it was only reading in the 180 - 190 range. I didn't fully trust that so I took my spare sender and put it in hot water with a good digital thermometer and found that the center of the meter was 160F (should be about 180 - 185).
Rick - thanks - I would never have expected that. The stabilizers from EBay and Delta did not do that - they just gave steady voltage outputs that were wrong.
Here is where it gets messed up. It was recommended to make sure the stabilizer was properly grounded. Since it took some effort to get to, and they are not expensive, I decided to get a new one from Delta Motorsports and make sure it was grounded. I bench tested it first and got the .35 V output, so was suspect of this. Today I realized I had never tested the original with a proper ground, and when I did, again outside the car with hot water, it gave the correct gauge reading with 180F at the first small dot. Since I had not tested the new unit from Delta in the car, I swapped that in to test. This is two minutes later. So when I turn the ignition key, the starter doesn't turn. All other electrical OK.
After four hours trying to figure out what I messed up under the dash with all of this taking apart and putting together, verifying the starter switch still works, tracing the white / red wire through the seat belt switch and relay, and basically going nuts, found that the female side connector within the 5-position connector in the engine compartment had worked loose.
BTW -the Delta unit acts just like it is putting out .35 V. No movement of the water or fuel gauges.
Thanks for the support - this is a big deal as I have been trying to figure out the "overheating" for nearly two years. Apparently so was the previous owner in 2011.