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| Joined: | 09-10-2012 |
| Location: | Little Chute, Wisconsin USA |
| Posts: | 435 |
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My experience seems similar to atgparker's. I mentioned above that I had trouble downloading the wav file from the Spiyda site, but I was able to get it yesterday. I temporarily hooked up the tach directly to the battery with a wire to the coil minus. However, I could not get the calibration to work with the cable. Maybe my laptop isn't loud enough.
Anyway, today I went out to Harbor Fright (yes that's how I spell it) and picked up an automotive multimeter that, among other things, has a clamp-on attachment to read RPMs (I needed to get it for my boat anyway). Hooked that up, and was able to use it as a baseline to calibrate my tach with the Spiyda board. It seems quite accurate in comparison to the clamp-on, though as atgparker noted it is a little slow to respond.
Nevertheless, I now have a stock looking, Smiths RVI1439/03A tach in my dash with RVC internals, and connected in the RVC way, which was my goal. I just plugged the two wires that connected to the internal loop together (they were thinking, making one a male bullet and one a female) to bypass the tach that way, and ran a new wire from the tach directly to the coil. Works nicely. Even though I have the stock ignition with points, I think this is a more effective, reliable way to connect the tach (plus now I'm covered if I do go to Pertronix at some point), and I would recommend the Spiyda board to anyone with tach issues.